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testarossa wrote:

mark1122 wrote: no wonder i feel thirsty lol

good thing i didnt say clitz. lol

Bet you already have a picture for that one.

LOL

and i bet uv seen it LOL

Thanks for the info.

.....uh, your petcock drips?? You should have that looked at.

79MKII wrote: Thanks for the info.

.....uh, your petcock drips?? You should have that looked at.

its not that bad, if i just keep it elevated.

I have an issue with the Dyna ignition.

The timing light, or system check light stays on. I have been through each connection about three times.

I am really ready to take the ball peen hammer to the bike now. There is no spark, the timing cannot be set.

The wiring is correct, I checked it, my neighbor checked it, then we checked it all again. There are no broken wires, we checked them with an ohm meter.

Anyone else had this issue?

tk11b40 wrote:

I have an issue with the Dyna ignition.

The timing light, or system check light stays on. I have been through each connection about three times.

I am really ready to take the ball peen hammer to the bike now. There is no spark, the timing cannot be set.

The wiring is correct, I checked it, my neighbor checked it, then we checked it all again. There are no broken wires, we checked them with an ohm meter.

Anyone else had this issue?

If not already done, would:

Assure the red wire from Dyna-S (that's spliced into the bike's switched battery voltage) is actually supplying battery voltage to the Dyna-S pickup modules.
In order to function, Dyna-S requires battery voltage (unlike points).

Assure both ignition coils are each receiving switched battery voltage to primary wiring terminal (typically a red or red/yellow wire).

Assure that the primary terminal screw heads aren't shorting against the coil mounting spacer.

Could manually ground and un-ground a charged ignition coil's primary winding to see if the grounded plugs spark.

Even if the Dyna-S is properly functioning to ground and un-ground the ignition coils, there are other reasons that may cause absence of spark.

Good Fortune!

Ted, the Dyna instructions say that if the red light stays on, it means that he crank trigger isn't properly connected. If you have verified the connections and continuity of all the wires, then I would suspect that something is amiss in the crank trigger. Take a step back and go through the troubleshooting section of the instructions if you haven't already. If that doesn't resolve your issue, then give their tech support a call. Make sure that all your fuses are good, ignition switch is functioning properly, etc.

BTW Patton, he has the Dyna 2000 not S.

I went round and round with this today, I will check it again tomorrow, unless i take a blowtorch to the bike.

This is giant let down number two. The first one was a near battery explosion as the thing was way over charging. So I by new stator and solid state rectifier, then ignition thinking all would just "fire" up.

everything that is supposed to wrk with the key on works, the coils are wired with Hot on one terminal then a jump wire to the second coil (per Dyna instructions).

The right coil seems to get "warm" with the ignition on, we checked resistance, it was the same on both coils.

Burnt OUT..ready to hook a tow strap to the bike, yank it off the stand, and into the street dragging it around for a couple miles.

I will check all against your drawing in the morning, thank you for the illustration!!

Ok so there is supposed to be 12 volts at the red wire on the trigger. There is definately less than 12, using the light bulb deellee (it's very dim). I would use the volt meter but I am afraid that went into the garbage can earlier today....it was made in China, and looked like it would work but in reality was just landfill in a nice package....thanks China.

I don't know what would cause a voltage drop. The wire used for the switched tweleve volt is the same one as the stock coils. There is plenty of juice there.

The coil on the right (2/3) gets rather warm when the power is turned on, the coil on the left (1/4) is cool to the touch.

This is baffling me. I had this thing running with the point style ignition, just had the aforementioned charging issue.

Ever been "whippied" while waterskiing or tubing? I'm gonna drag this thing to LA, behind my truck, and "whip" whats left inot Dynatek's front window.

Ok maybe not.

I also thought maybe we had a grounding issue due to the powdercoated frome, so I jumped a ground to the coil (the section of Bar that gets grounded) still no change.

tk11b40 wrote: ...will check all against your drawing in the morning, thank you for the illustration!!

The drawing I posted applies to Dyna-S and not Dyna 2000.

If needed, here are Dyna 2000 installation instructions, including the trouble shooting section which may be helpful.

www.schnitzracing.com/manuals/DDK2-12C.pdf

Good Fortune!

Any idea how bad you were overcharging? Like what voltage it was charging at? Did it blow any fuses, bulbs, etc when the battery got hot on you? Just wondering if the overcharging didn't do some damage here? Not trying to scare you, just thinking out loud.

One cold coil and one warm doesn't seem right. Don't do anything rash right now. I'll have a look at mine tomorrow to see if something jumps out at me. Too late to go out there starting the bike and such. If you aren't getting the 12v on the red wire like the instructions say, then something isn't right.

Is your battery fully charged now? Is that four pin plug coming from the crank trigger plugged in properly. I know that I left mine disconnected once and couldn't figure out why the bike wouldn't start for about an hour. Have you selected an advance curve with the switch on the ignition box? It's not still in test mode is it? I know you have probably checked this stuff. I'm just throwing it out there to make sure you haven't overlooked something.

tk11b40 wrote: ...way over charging. So I by new stator and solid state rectifier, then ignition thinking all would just "fire" up....

Am thinking that overcharging typically results from an issue with the voltage regulator, or the voltage regulator component in a combo rectifier/regulator unit. And not an issue with the stator, which produces AC current that the rectifier converts into DC current which the regulator supposedly limits to a certain level.
Could be mistaken, but hear most about generator issue of under-producing, rather than over-producing.

Good Fortune!

You are correct on the charging issue.

I want this bike to be rock solid dependable, and comfortable, I plan on riding it all over the west coast, so when a slight problem occured with charging, the whole system got replaced.

Ignition was the same theory, but now I have an issue. This drives me crazy, I generally buy the best thing I can find, with no worries about cost. Now the thing is inop, I am pissy pissy.

There is only one fuse, the main 30 amp. The wiring harness is brand new.

I almost have enough cash invested into this thing, approaching the price of a new BMW, which would give me long service. I started riding on the KZ's of the same time frame, so this is the dream bike, but I am so close to destroying it out of anger ..... well I need not go on.