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Beginner biker from MN 03 Apr 2013 17:17 #580406

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Hi All, it's a pleasure to join this group. I suppose I am the definition of a newbie. I had an introduction to riding when I was living in Thailand and getting around mostly by motorbike. I took a few really long trips through the north country there and have to say that was one of most enjoyable things I've done (even on a tiny little 125cc Honda!) After about a year of that, I vowed to get myself a real bike when I returned home to frosty MN. I finally got around to it just in time for riding season this spring. My friend just helped me buy an '82 KZ550C and I think it will make a good first bike. I originally was looking for any early 80's vintage Japanese bike around 500cc. I liked the Honda CX500 (because I had heard wonders about the engine's quality and ingenuity) but went with this kawi for a few reasons, mainly because it was for sale, my buddy vetted it, and the seller was asking for a great price. I whittled his asking price down even further, due to some issues we found when looking at it/riding it. So about that.. it's the kind of bike that will need a little TLC from the beginning, which is actually perfect for me because it will force me to learn the basics of maintenance and repair. It would seem wrong to me to lack those basic skills and understanding of how the bike works while trying to enjoy the machine at the same time. The problem is I have no mechanical background really, other than past experience with basic bicycle repair, and a general interest in tinkering and fixing things. So in order to get this new bike of mine into shape, I know I'll need some help along the way (I am already indebted to my friend for helping with the find and want to learn some on my own too). So that's what brings me to this forum. And who knows, maybe I will actually have something to contribute eventually. Until then, I look forward to gleaning what I can and meeting other enthusiasts like myself. So look for a post from me (with better pics) in one of the other topics soon! Thanks, timotay.
- -[ 1982 KZ550C ]- -

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Beginner biker from MN 03 Apr 2013 17:58 #580408

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Welcome timotay,

Just in time to get in on the relay, here are a couple links to check out.
I hope you can join us, it should be up by you next month sometime.

JD

The skinny;
kzrider.com/forum/13-bike-related/476759...tagekawasakirelaycom

Where the flag is now;
kzrider.com/forum/13-bike-related/504860...3?limit=20&start=380
78 KZ1000 A2A
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Beginner biker from MN 03 Apr 2013 18:24 #580410

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Welcome aboard!

Here are some tips that you may find helpful:

Many newbies and not so newbies run into the same problems or issues with their bikes which could be easily avoided with a little preparation. Here are a couple recommendations that I hope you will find useful.

Before riding your KZ you should take a little time to become familiar with it. Simple things like checking the oil, tire pressures, etc. are explained in the Kawasaki Owner's Manual. If you bike didn't come with one (they normally are in a little holder on the bottom of the seat) you can usually find one on eBay - be sure to get one for your exact year/model.


MANUAL

You really should buy the Kawasaki Service Manual for your bike. The factory service manual provides instructions on the various maintenance procedures and schedules for your bike, procedures for diagnosing problems, proper torque values for the various fasteners (VERY IMPORTANT), and insight into how each system on your bike works even if you are not repairing that system. Studying the manual before you attempt performing service on your bike will impart an understanding of the system you are working on which will increase the odds of success.

The manuals usually are readily available for most models on eBay and other sources; but be sure to get one that has your specific year and model in it as there are differences between the various models. I do not recommend Clymers, Haynes, or other aftermarket manuals as I have seen instances where they provide inaccurate advice. You may decide to use those to supplement the factory manual, but in my opinion they are not a suitable substitute. If you have trouble finding one for your model ask us to help.


TOOLS

Before reaching for that Phillips screwdriver to do a repair or maintenance PLEASE do yourself a big favor and visit the following link. It explains the fact that Phillips screwdriver tips will wreck the crosshead screws (they are not Phillips - they are JIS screws) on your KZ650 and tells how to easily deal with this issue so it will not be a problem.

kzrider.com/forum/21-tools/532335-budget...ewdriver-tips#532335

Before reaching for that wrench or ratchet consider the following. The bolts are steel, but your engine and front forks are aluminum. The bolts are much tougher than the aluminum and if over tightened will strip the aluminum threads. Although these can be repaired, preventing damage by applying proper torque will save you grief, time, and money. Tightening fasteners properly requires torque wrenches. Various vendors, including Snap-on, CDI, Sears, etc., market torque wrenches. The two most popular types are the bar type and micrometer type. Either will work, but the micrometer type is a bit easier to use, especially if you are tightening several fasteners with the same torque - such as cylinder head covers. You will need a torque wrench calibrated in INCH POUNDS for many of the bolts. You will also need a torque wrench calibrated in FOOT POUNDS for the larger bolts. Don't try to use the foot pounds wrench on the smaller bolts as it will not be sensitive enough at low torque settings to provide accurate torque. There are many fasteners that require low torque. These include such things as 6mm oil pan bolts, cylinder head cover bolts, etc. for which the torque in 61-78 inch pounds. These low torque bolts require a wrench that is accurate at low settings and this wrench should be graduated in inch pounds. In addition, there are numerous high torque fasteners such as the front axle nuts (51 - 65 foot pounds) or swing arm pivot shaft nuts (58 - 87 foot pounds). These require a wrench that is accurate at higher settings; this wrench should be graduated in foot pounds. Using the proper torque wrenches to correctly tighten fasteners will help prevent damage and contribute to a safe bike. The Kawasaki Service Manual will list the various torque specs for the bolts. I suggest you get the manual before buying the torque wrenches so you can decide which wrenches best meet the torque specs.

Consider buying a can of Kroil penetrating oil and use it to soak stubborn fasteners for a couple days before trying to loosen them. Remember, the original screws and bolts were installed on your bike when Jimmy Carter was President, so many of them may be hard to remove. Kroil can be bought online, at guns shows, and at some other venues.


MOTOR OIL
The ingredients in oils have changed over the years. For example, today's Castrol GTX oil (and pretty much all other AUTOMOBILE oil) is not the same as it was in the 1980's. Back then it worked great in KZ bikes. But, things have changed. Early AUTOMOBILE oils contained zinc phosphorus compounds (ZDDP) to protect engine components from metal to metal contact. This was good for engines, but it was found to be destructive to catalytic converters. Consequently, in AUTOMOBILE oils ZDDP was virtually eliminated and replaced with different chemistry generically referred to as "Friction Modifiers." These work fine and offer good protection for normal AUTOMOBILE engines. However, today's AUTOMOBILE oil "Friction Modifiers" are destructive to wet clutches. KZ bikes (and many other brands) have wet clutches. As a result of these oil chemistry changes a distinction needed to be made between those oils which are suitable for wet clutches and those which are not. That distinction was documented by the Japanese Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel (JASO). JASO developed a number of different oil specifications for different applications. The specifications that apply to 4 stroke motorcycles fall under the "4T Specifications." Within the 4T specifications the JASO MA class oils are specifically formulated for 4 stroke motorcycles with wet clutches.

There are synthetic, semi-synthetic, and non-synthetic oils that meet the JASO-MA standard and any of them will work ok. However, using oils that are not designated as meeting the JASO-MA standard is destructive to KZ clutches.

Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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Beginner biker from MN 03 Apr 2013 22:07 #580437

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Congrats!

The best thing you can do, as Ed mentioned, is get the manual. Since you are a newbie, you will need to read read read, sometimes you have to read the same section over and over before it all clicks and makes sense. I would also suggest posting here before doing any serious maintenance to get tips and tricks etc.

The factory has a lot of excellent detail, while the other manual has a lot of good "big-picture" type descriptions of carburetion etc.

My signature has two manuals for your bike (three if you count different editions of the factory manual. Download all of them and have them handy to read anytime you are bored.

I also have a site dedicated specifially to your cars as they are not a real common brand (Teikei).

And read the warning about the cam chain tensioner before removing the valve cover for any reason.
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Beginner biker from MN 10 Apr 2013 03:03 #581547

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Wow, it seems I really ran into the right people! (now I just need to set aside a little more time for this forum..)

"lou"dhvx... Thanks for the manuals. I will absolutely be reading them. Over the winter I was going over the honda 500 manual because I thought I would be getting a cx. It's a pretty different powertrain from the 550C, but at least I have some of the basic concepts down. As for the links... I'm a little overwhelmed by the in-depth technical detail right now, but I grasp the main concepts. I will get there in time. So grateful to be spoon-fed the real meaty details though, thanks!

Ed, Yes, those tips are definitely helpful. A torque wrench was on my list of tools to get from the beginning, and now it has made it to the top of that list. A manometer is on my xmas list right now.
I found your thread on the JIS drivers interesting. I'm digging the meticulous attention to detail! I just found an original Kawasaki tool kit under the seat with interchangeable drivers. I tried them out in some of the crosshead screws and think I can manage without deforming the heads. They dont look like your JIS drivers though. See my pics... By the way, I was really STOKED to have a spark plug socket waiting for me!! (the first tool on the top). But I have no idea what the one below it is (second from top) Any ideas? Its just a hollow tube with different sized oval-shaped ends?

Anyways, I thought there was something wrong with me because I have been reading this Clymer manual that came with the bike and it mostly leaves me wanting MORE everywhere I look. A lot more! Let me say I am really glad to have the input of others! I'm keeping Lou's manuals at my bedside for now.
Again, thanks to both of you for the tips. I hope you don't mind me coming to you in the future with questions..

If you're still interested Ed, I was in Chiang Mai for almost a year. My (then) fiance wanted to base her life-work in developing countries at the time and found an "NGO" that wanted to hire her. We both had the travel bug and a die-hard "save the world" mentality. I tagged along, followed suit and ended up volunteering at an ecumenical organization that her family had connections with. I also worked at local private schools essentially babysitting spoiled little international kids. Here's the bottom line: Along the margins there are some decent ex-pats living and working in thailand towards a greater cause and a few of them are actually improving peoples' lives and having genuine "cross-cultural" interactions while they're at it. However, most of the development workers there are just along for the ride/high for one or two of the umpteen delusional reasons people normally go to a place like Thailand. Suffice it to say... after a while we burned out and became disillusioned/jaded by all the (surprise!) greed/avarice/corruption/bullshit that undermines international development work. We retreated to my hometown of Minneapolis and got hitched. Now she is working for a bloodsucking corporate law firm and I am a permanent software developer at a MPLS consulting firm. Lo and behold, we quite enjoy suckling the privileged teet of private enterprise! And they (all) lived happily ever after :) So... what did YOU do in Thailand?!?

BlueJ (Jack?) - So glad you clued me into the ride! This is exactly what I'm interested in. Actually I wish I could join you in Chi-Town.. I've passed through there several times on my way out east (I have people in NJ, PA and a brother in Grand Rapids, MI too) and chicago is always a great sight to see coming from mpls. I hope to be getting in on the MN/Dakotas ride along with whatever poor soul is undertaking that task. A ride to ND should not be done alone! The only problem is... at the moment I can't seem to find the damn link to that google map with all the kzrider pins. I have read a lot of the old posts about the planning and it got me really excited to participate! (it might have something to do with being a six-pack deep at the moment? That's right, I keep track by the 6-pack. Is there an LSD dosage equivalent to one 6-pack? I thought not.) Anyways, I hope to get in touch with those MN folks and get my bike ready for a long-ass trip into the middle of nowhere next month! Here's the tri-state route I'm thinking of: goo.gl/maps/Uu6pT Now if i could only find that gigantic map of all the forum members!! (A little help?)

Whew! Ok, time to turn in for the night/morning. All the best everyone..

-Tim
- -[ 1982 KZ550C ]- -

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Beginner biker from MN 10 Apr 2013 04:23 #581554

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Here's the toolkit...

[attachment:2]C:\fakepath\2013-04-09 23.01.32.jpg[/attachment]

Here's what I think are the #2 and #3 drivers..

[attachment:3]C:\fakepath\2013-04-09 23.03.40.jpg[/attachment]


And here's driver fitting loosely into the screws...

[attachment:4]C:\fakepath\2013-04-09 22.57.59.jpg[/attachment]

And here are the greasy nasty carbs that are about to be worked over..

Attachment 2013-04-0922.58.43.jpg not found

- -[ 1982 KZ550C ]- -
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Beginner biker from MN 10 Apr 2013 10:15 #581579

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Attachment picpostnewsite912x671.jpg not found



Good Fortune! :)
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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Beginner biker from MN 10 Apr 2013 10:23 #581581

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If you plan to replace the carb bowl gaskets you can do so without removing the carbs. It helps if you use a mirror and little ratchet as shown in pic below.

I have not been to Thailand, but my son and his wife are missionaries there. Ed

Attachment carbscrewdriver.jpg not found

1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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Beginner biker from MN 07 May 2013 20:00 #586210

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timotay, what happened to you brother, the flag's on its way.

Jack
78 KZ1000 A2A

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