wireman's spindly frame pics

some progress tonight.









have gussets for other side ready, kitchen pass ran out tho.

--r

Post edited by: solomrus, at: 2006/09/13 00:50

Post edited by: steell, at: 2006/09/15 08:41

What size electrode and filler rod you using? Own a Miller Econotig (don't actually know how to TIG weld yet). Am currently trying to teach myself how to TIG weld. Steel ain't to bad but my aluminium welding blows. A hint on machine settings for 16 & 14 ga aluminium would be nice. For that matter the settings for your steel too.

you have to ask the master,im just the grunt on this project!:whistle:

hey how come your pictures look better than mine?same night,same frame,same garage?oh,differant operater!:blush: :S

It's like infinity or something!
When can I send my frame?

RSK, my welder is a thermal arc 185 box, so not too dissimilar to yours. does the econo have AC output? i thought that rig was DC only?

for 90% of my work, i use a 1/16th filler. i don't have a lot of need to go much larger.

after my initial experiments with some of the various electrodes, i generally use 3/32's ceriated(red) tungsten's for mild and stainless. the smaller electrodes don't cut it for most of my work. if i get around to doing really thin stuff, they will be nice. so, pick up a few of those electrodes.

on stainless, in DC mode, i run .5seconds pre-flow, startup amps are 10 or so, and i set the peak around 45 or 50 amps. you DON'T want to weld ss too hot. you can tell if it's overheated by the color of the bead. dark, steely gray is bad. light straw color, or rainbow coloring is better. error on the low side to start.

i use 3/32's pure tungsten on aluminum, and really only aluminum. depending on the parts i am welding, i start at bout 65A, and cap things around 130 or so. i don't have the massive h/p to do really heavy al without pre-heating.

best advice i can give you is PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE. i don't get enough...

also, for much better advice than mine, go over to the hobart web site, and join the forums over there. those guru's totally spank me for experience.

www.hobartwelders.com/mboard/

TG, figure out what you want done, send me the sketches, and send it my way. wire's will be done with a couple more sessions. well, after he takes it to joe for a couple degrees... then i ought to have some time for another.

i did'nt shrink my pics down a whole bunch man. that's probably why they are a little clearer. 8^P

--r

Post edited by: solomrus, at: 2006/09/13 14:03

The Econotig has AC, so doing aluminium is ok. I have 1/16" electrodes figuring all I "intend" to do is 18-14ga mild steel and aluminium. The Econotig also has stick capability so for heavier stug like 1/4" angle iron type jobs I would use plain old stick. I am using pure tungsten on aluminium and ceriated on steel. I got piles and piles of aluminium under bench that has been butt welded to death. So far I can manage maybe 1" of good weld before base metal becomes to hot and my weld goes to hell. Figure to use stitch technique (1" weld, move 3" forward, weld 1" move 3 " weld 1") and eventually get back to start. I have found out that fitment is critical. You cannot fill in gaps well at all with TIG and aluminium.

ok, you got it pretty much handled. pick up a couple 3/32's electrodes, and a collet for them. you'll be able to use fewer amps to get the puddle to form, since the larger 'trode is easier to drive.

power down a bit, and move faster.

you know how the puddle wets out on al? get's shiney? i wait for that before i ever dip, then once i get a good puddle, it moves pretty fast. you have a pedal for your power right? you ought to be able to bring the heat back a bit with that. if no, try moving the torch away from the work, and letting the puddle cool a bit.

think of it like doing vertical up, you have to manage the heat much more closely than doing a horizontal weld.

how much gap are you leaving between the pieces you are welding?

i have a little hobart 135 GMAW for just blowing things together. i prefer tig, but mig has a place.

--r

You may have seen these already but if you havent I thought you may like them

Post edited by: mark1122, at: 2006/09/14 18:56

www.a-magic.com/custom/top.htm

cool,thanks! that backbone bracing is basically same idea we're going for but our version will be more refined.all welds on frame will be built up and ground smooth basically a molded frame done with steel no bondo here.:evil: after we get the rest of frame welded and gusseted im gonna take frame over and have it raked 2degrees then we'll do the steering head and backbone gusseting.i know its moving slow,but atleast it is starting to move again!hahaha