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Bar replacement issues
- Robjb84
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Issue 1:
The angle at which my MC is now positioned caused some brake fluid to leak out from the top. Is this going to be a big problem, or do I just use less fluid?
Also it seems like my brakes are locked on now..
Issue 2:
Which slot should I put my throttle cable into? My bad, I didnt check to see where it came from when I pulled the grip off.
Issue 3:
Assuming there is no problem with my MC being at the angle that it is, what about my brake line itself? If I push the MC all the way on, the hose is going to be horribly kinked...
Well thats about it I think Man, so much for a straight forward job eh?
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- Biquetoast
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- King Jeremy The Wicked
Issue 1: The angle at which my MC is now positioned...
Issue 2: Which slot should I put my throttle cable into?
Issue 3: ...what about my brake line itself?
1: You must put the correct amount of fluid! You *may* need to get a different kind of MC, one that is designed to sit that way. The part about them being stuck on is a totally different problem. Also, it shouldn't leak no matter what angle it's at...
2: Just twist the throttle and look at which one gets pulled. The "pull" cable goes there, the "push" cable goes in the other one. Watch the carb to sure it's opening when connected.
3: Yeah, you will probably need to replace your brake line, and perhaps be mindful of the banjo bolt angle. When I went to superbike bars I just re-routed my brke line but it had too many tight bends for those old lines. I re-did it with stainless braided as soon as I could. You might have to do it straight away...
(1.) '75/'76 KZ400D - Commuter
(2.) '78 KZ750B3 Twin - Commuter
(3.) '78 KZ750B3 Twin - Commuter
(4.) '75 KZ400D - Sold
kz750twins.com
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- Robjb84
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As for the throttle, there is only one cable but two slots in the throttle handle, i can play with that though, not a problem.
Something msut have happened with the brakes because I cannot move the bike forward in neutral now. again, not much of an issue if I have to replace the MC anyway
Is there a big difference in MCs on these Kwakas? i.e. do I specifically need a 440 one, or are they pretty much the same on all of these bikes?
Post edited by: Robjb84, at: 2006/08/26 13:59
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- Biquetoast
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- King Jeremy The Wicked
I *do* encourage replacing the line, but maybe not the MC - that one's up to you. You might be able to continue using the MC you have, only that you have to be more careful filling it, always with the bike in such a position to get a good level. Remember, it *should not leak* even tilted. So check the seal on the cover!...so I guess I must need a new MC and brake hose...
...there is only one cable but two slots in the throttle handle...
...I cannot move the bike forward in neutral now...
...do I specifically need a 440 one, or are they pretty much the same on all of these bikes?
Sounds like you're missing a throttle cable. Kaws have 2, a "pull" and a "push". Not that you *need* the "push", per se, just letting you know... it's just a safety cable...
You have brake problems. You need to check it completely over, perhaps the caliper is frozen!
As for which MC to use, that's where I cannot help. I have read some threads in the past about which MC is best in that situation, so I suggest you search here and in the archive...
Good luck!
Post edited by: Biquetoast, at: 2006/08/26 15:11
(1.) '75/'76 KZ400D - Commuter
(2.) '78 KZ750B3 Twin - Commuter
(3.) '78 KZ750B3 Twin - Commuter
(4.) '75 KZ400D - Sold
kz750twins.com
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- Nevco48
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Getting rid of the LTD 'antler' handle bars can be alot of work, thats why they are still on my 750:S
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- Robjb84
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Yeah you arent kidding about the work involved... I went out there fully expecting this to be easy as pie and to be done and able to test it out in minutes... *sigh*
I also see im going to have to drill a small hole into the new handlebars since the ignition switch assembly has a little peg that prevents it from closing around the handlebars unless said peg can fit into a little hole.
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- Nevco48
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Yeah you arent kidding about the work involved... I went out there fully expecting this to be easy as pie and to be done and able to test it out in minutes... *sigh*quote]
:laugh: That NEVER happens!!:laugh: You should plan on a project like that taking about 3 full days. Then if it only takes 2 days, you can feel pretty special!
That little peg on the brake lever mount is to keep everything aligned properly. Make sure you have the bars and brake set where you want them before drilling.
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- Robjb84
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Though with all of my research on these forums all I found were people reporting that they had just done the handlebar swap, kept all of the same cables and were pretty much trouble free
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- Robjb84
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Will having it tilted at an angle cause problems? (other than some brake fluid leaking out at present)
Im thinking maybe I could keep this one on there if I can make sure no fluid leaks out...
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- Robjb84
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Anyway bars are on, had to drill a hole in bar for my right hand controls, other than that though mostly everything is looking good. Im going to split into another thread with some questions about the master cylinder. Just wanted to post this as some kind of closure for anyone else that does the bar replacement.
Minus my in-experience, it really is very straight forward.
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- kztee
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1977 KZ 1000A - Currently rebuilding
1980 KZ 750 LTD - Mostly stock daily rider
1979 KZ 1000 LTD - Parts bike and/or future project
1979 KZ 1000 ST
1980 GS 750 L
2003 ZRX 1200 R
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- JMKZHI
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