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Tapered bearing installation and the rubber seal
- OKC_Kent
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Should I have re-installed that rubber seal? It got pretty demolished during removal of the bearing, and now that I have the whole deal back together I'm having second thoughts.
Oklahoma City, OK
78 KZ650 B2 82,000+ miles
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- Biquetoast
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- King Jeremy The Wicked
I stared at the box from the bearings a while, re-reading it. It said to remove the seal, but it never said to re-install it.
I actually tried to put it back in... twice... above and below the bottom washer (which, arguably, also should not be there with the new bearings)...
...just to ease your mind, it cannot work. There is nothing to allow the rubber seal to stay in position on its own, nor hold it there. It just gets completely squished no matter how you try to put is back together, and then binds against the headstock pointlessly.
Feel better?
(1.) '75/'76 KZ400D - Commuter
(2.) '78 KZ750B3 Twin - Commuter
(3.) '78 KZ750B3 Twin - Commuter
(4.) '75 KZ400D - Sold
kz750twins.com
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- OKC_Kent
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What I did was seat the lower bearing, installed both races in the top and bottom, greased the heck out of them and put it all back together. I snugged the nut to let the forks flop to the side under their own weight. I still need to get a 1-1/16" socket to torque that top stem nut but all seems good.
I was looking at the old races, they were cratered and dimpled. Maybe in her previous life she was a wheelie king?:silly:
Oklahoma City, OK
78 KZ650 B2 82,000+ miles
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- Biquetoast
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- King Jeremy The Wicked
...I was looking at the old races, they were cratered and dimpled....
Boy, mine were too. The old grease was now hardened lumps of nearly rock, stuck between the bearings. Once I got all the weight off the forks/trees and just before I got the bearings (I was doing a front-end teardown anyway), I could finally feel how ratchety the steering was. Wow. So much better now....
(1.) '75/'76 KZ400D - Commuter
(2.) '78 KZ750B3 Twin - Commuter
(3.) '78 KZ750B3 Twin - Commuter
(4.) '75 KZ400D - Sold
kz750twins.com
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- RonKZ650
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OKC_Kent wrote:
OK COOL.
What I did was seat the lower bearing, installed both races in the top and bottom, greased the heck out of them and put it all back together. I snugged the nut to let the forks flop to the side under their own weight. I still need to get a 1-1/16" socket to torque that top stem nut but all seems good.
I was looking at the old races, they were cratered and dimpled. Maybe in her previous life she was a wheelie king?:silly:
321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.
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- OKC_Kent
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Oklahoma City, OK
78 KZ650 B2 82,000+ miles
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- RonKZ650
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Are your bikes with the 15 yr tapers still smooth, with no ratchety feel?
As far as I can tell, yes, but like I said the ratchety thing doesn't bother me.
321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.
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- pjx
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Paul
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- OKC_Kent
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Oklahoma City, OK
78 KZ650 B2 82,000+ miles
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- godsjester71
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Gotta love a bike rebuild project! Get your bearings from Jeff at www.z1enterprises.com and then throw a few pictures up.
Shouda sold it t someone i don't know. :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:
Cool, I found it for you here:
www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=216
Post edited by: godsjester71, at: 2006/08/28 21:19
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- loudhvx
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If the center of the road forms a hump(or the car tire-tracks form shallow canyons) like we have in Chicago, you have to correct the steering slighty if you are riding on the slanted transition between hump and canyon because you are on a slight slant. Because the bars are not straight ahead, when you hit the brakes, the bearings try to center in the dimples which causes the bars to alter their course. The harder you brake, the more it alters course. It's not severe, but it gives an un-settling feeling like the tires are slipping or something. It's most noticeable at intersections where the humps are at their most severe.
My bearings were really bad so the taper bearings made a big difference in eliminating this behavior.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
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- timber
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