Weak spark still...

Just in case there is someone out there that has an expert insite into this...

79 KZ1000st project update in this order:

- New battery (factory spec)
- New MAC all black pipe
- New handlebars
- New headlight bucket
- New WG/battery-relay to coil wiring upgrade
(which improved spark initially)
- New Dyna coils (the green 3 ohm ones) because the
old ones were cracked
and after the WG upgrade they started arcing out
of the cracks to the frame after the first
initial start.
- New 7mm plug wires
- New NGK plug caps

Still have a weak spark and plugs still foul... first time I started it after the coil/plug wire install only the left two cylinders fired... I pulled the right two plugs and cleaned them then re-installed... when I re-started, only the right cylinder fired.

I'm using the relatively new plugs that I put in when I first got the bike a few months ago... I've only ridden the bike around the block a few times but have fouled and cleaned the plugs multiple times. I'm wondering if I should upgrade my plugs?

This is more of an observation than a question... More than likely it's just a matter of tracking down a loose connection or a bad ground somewhere. :whistle:

Thanks in advance!

-Claude

It must be something simple.

What's the voltage to the coils when the ignition is on? Are you sure that the alternator is making power? If you fitted a new battery the ignition may have worked initially till the system ran down. How about the rectifier, they're often a weak point.

KZCSI

Post edited by: kzcsi, at: 2006/01/07 14:20

Have you tried the ElectroWhatever Fault Finding page?

Thanks, I'll be checking into both of your suggestions.

Hey there KZreeder,
Sounds like you and I are having the same problem, though mine is a 4 cyl 650. I have: New battery, New MAC 4:1 pipe,WG/battery to relay to coil wiring upgrade,fresh WG carbs, new green DynaS coils, new DynaS electronic ignition, new NGK plugs, new DynaS wires & plug caps.
Have you notice upon installing the new coils, that the screw terminals come AWFULLY CLOSE to the mounting bolts? I insulated them with a piece of vinyl hose just to be sure there is no arcing.
Is your bike also very hard to start? I cleaned the plugs yesterday with a pneumatic plug cleaner. Then I got it running after about 10 minutes. I rode it 3 miles. The plugs were completely carbon fouled after that! Well, now I stripped the 1st 2 threads on plug hole #1, so that is a whole new problem because of this shit.
If you come up with any good news, I'd sure like to know. If I get anywhere, I'll post it here as well..

Post edited by: Wild & KZ Guy, at: 2006/01/15 09:30

my 650 does the same exact thing, nothing I seem to try helps!

Interesting...
Sorry abut my sporatic response times lately... been super busy at my job and working around the clock (literally at times). I hear ya tho... as soon as I get time to get back down to the shop, I'm going to go over the all the ignition electrics with my multi-meter... interesting point about the connecters...

I'll post any new insight as soon as I get any further on it.

Thanks,
Claude

No expert here but brain seems to be running on all four at the moment so...

You don't specify if you are still running points ignition with those new dyna coils. If so and points are set properly you should replace the condensors. If your new coils are not the same resistance as the old, you may get some benefit from a different value for the condensor.

Something worth looking into when things are wonky and your at wits end with ignition is the kill side of the circuit. Generic 70's-80's bike might have components in ignition switch, side stand switch, kill switch on bars, maybe even a 'tip over' switch. Look on schematic and see if this circuit is tied to a pin on the CDI. Measure the voltage there. If it's a pull to ground to kill type then you should be close to 12V when running.

Plugs? Right temp range? Right resistance for boots?

-Duck

I've got the green 3ohm coils running off an electronic ignition....

I plan on going through everything with the factory service manual in hand.

Post edited by: kzreeder, at: 2006/01/15 19:31

Well, it's been about a month since anybody replied here...anybody got any good news yet?? I don't. I hafta admit, I've been a slug; drinking lots of beer, and hoping the bike will fix itself :lol:
However, I did fix my 'stripped #1 plug hole'; I put some chewing gum in the hole, and ground out the stripped threads with my Dremel tool. Worked great. The gum caught most of the filings, but I also had a helper vacuuming the hole the whole time I worked on it. And I was careful not to damage the plug gasket mating surface..

I may have misinterpreted or read it wrong somewhere else on KZr, but isn't the WG coil wire upgrade designed to improve OEM coil function, and basically would negate itself with the DYNA coils?

Just curious. Because I'm considering doing the WG upgrade first until I can afford the DYNA coils.

The Wired George upgrade will work with any coils. It bypasses all the original circuits and connections, so when you turn the ignition key, full battery power is sent directly to the coils, thru use of the relay.