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anyone know how to test the kick start?
- boomboom45
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20 Mar 2007 04:34 #121844
by boomboom45
anyone know how to test the kick start? was created by boomboom45
besides the usual method of having someone grab a plug wire? i have no starter, and no spark to spark plugs. i have juice at the fuse panel, but no juice at the cutoff switch. checked the switch, thats not the issue, any other ideas?
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- wiredgeorge
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20 Mar 2007 05:45 #121859
by wiredgeorge
wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
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Replied by wiredgeorge on topic anyone know how to test the kick start?
bb45... Not sure I understand your question. Why do you need to test the kick starter?
You "tested" the "cutoff" switch. Is that the kill switch? How did you test it if there is no power to it?
OK, let's try some basic troubleshooting and ignore my confusion... You say you have power at the fuse block? OK, that power is going OUT to the ignition switch via a thick white wire and comes BACK to the fuses via the ignition switch. Where did you check for power?
Since you don't have a starter or power to your ignition, both are switched DC; that is, they start life coming from that thick white wire that goes into the ignition switch and come out on switched DC circuits. I would disconnect the connector going into the ignition switch and check for voltage on the LARGE white wire. The power will come from the battery when the bike isn't running. If you have no power, the battery is DEAD or you have a bad connector or wiring. If you DO have power, plug the connector back in after cleaning it with spray electrical contact cleaner and daubing the pins with dielectic grease. Both can be purchased at an autoparts store.
Now, unplug the connectors coming off the ignition switch. Clean and lube them as well. Turn the key on and check for power on the various wires coming off the ignition switch. I suspect the switch is bad and power isn't coming off the switch on some of the wires. You may have a blue, red and brown wires coming off the switch. These should show DC voltage when the switch is in the on position. There may be others as well... a white wire and possibly and orange/green. Not sure about these and would have to check a wiring diagram. The brown may not be there and may come off the blue subcircuit downstream.
You should probably get a wiring diagram and figure out which wires should be hot with the key on. The one that runs out of the ignition switch and connects to the kill switch will be one of them. The BLUE and RED should be hot as well. If there is a brown, it will be hot. In any case, this process checks the ignition switch.
If you have power coming out and going over to the right hand switch gear, it will be the wire going into the kill switch. Open up the ignition switch to right switchgear connector and clean/grease. Then open the right switchgear. Find the wire coming off the ignition swtich and going into the kill switch. Turn the key on and check for power. With the kill switch in the RUN position, check for power on the BLACK wire and YELLOW/RED wires coming off the kill switch. These are the trigger wire for the solenoid (via the button in the switch) and coil power wires respsectively. THAT is how you check your kill switch but you should have power. If you don't you can always check continuity but the powered test is a better way to do it.
You "tested" the "cutoff" switch. Is that the kill switch? How did you test it if there is no power to it?
OK, let's try some basic troubleshooting and ignore my confusion... You say you have power at the fuse block? OK, that power is going OUT to the ignition switch via a thick white wire and comes BACK to the fuses via the ignition switch. Where did you check for power?
Since you don't have a starter or power to your ignition, both are switched DC; that is, they start life coming from that thick white wire that goes into the ignition switch and come out on switched DC circuits. I would disconnect the connector going into the ignition switch and check for voltage on the LARGE white wire. The power will come from the battery when the bike isn't running. If you have no power, the battery is DEAD or you have a bad connector or wiring. If you DO have power, plug the connector back in after cleaning it with spray electrical contact cleaner and daubing the pins with dielectic grease. Both can be purchased at an autoparts store.
Now, unplug the connectors coming off the ignition switch. Clean and lube them as well. Turn the key on and check for power on the various wires coming off the ignition switch. I suspect the switch is bad and power isn't coming off the switch on some of the wires. You may have a blue, red and brown wires coming off the switch. These should show DC voltage when the switch is in the on position. There may be others as well... a white wire and possibly and orange/green. Not sure about these and would have to check a wiring diagram. The brown may not be there and may come off the blue subcircuit downstream.
You should probably get a wiring diagram and figure out which wires should be hot with the key on. The one that runs out of the ignition switch and connects to the kill switch will be one of them. The BLUE and RED should be hot as well. If there is a brown, it will be hot. In any case, this process checks the ignition switch.
If you have power coming out and going over to the right hand switch gear, it will be the wire going into the kill switch. Open up the ignition switch to right switchgear connector and clean/grease. Then open the right switchgear. Find the wire coming off the ignition swtich and going into the kill switch. Turn the key on and check for power. With the kill switch in the RUN position, check for power on the BLACK wire and YELLOW/RED wires coming off the kill switch. These are the trigger wire for the solenoid (via the button in the switch) and coil power wires respsectively. THAT is how you check your kill switch but you should have power. If you don't you can always check continuity but the powered test is a better way to do it.
wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
Mico TX
www.wgcarbs.com
Too many bikes to list!
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- boomboom45
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20 Mar 2007 06:56 #121885
by boomboom45
Replied by boomboom45 on topic anyone know how to test the kick start?
thanks george, ill check that as soon as i can, i have a wiring diagram, but knowing where to start is what i needed.
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- wiredgeorge
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20 Mar 2007 13:10 #121985
by wiredgeorge
wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
Mico TX
www.wgcarbs.com
Too many bikes to list!
Replied by wiredgeorge on topic anyone know how to test the kick start?
The hardest part of giving internet advice is trying to figure out what the real question is... if you need a hand, just holler!
wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
Mico TX
www.wgcarbs.com
Too many bikes to list!
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- boomboom45
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24 Mar 2007 12:27 #123123
by boomboom45
Replied by boomboom45 on topic Re
ok, found out the possible problem, i have power going into the coils from the battery, but no spark, on either one. will coils fail like that, and how do i test to see if that is the actual issue?
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24 Mar 2007 13:13 #123135
by KaZooCruiser
Replied by KaZooCruiser on topic no spark
boomboom45 wrote:
Pull your point plate cover, and see if you have 12v at your points. With a plug in one of the caps, (probably #4, it's the one closest to you while testing the points) laying on the side of the head and with the key on, you should get a spark to jump if you open and shut left side 1-4 points with a screwdriver.
You might verify that the gap on the points is about the width of a cardboard matchbook cover.
How many miles on the bike since the last tune-up?
ok, found out the possible problem, i have power going into the coils from the battery, but no spark, on either one. will coils fail like that, and how do i test to see if that is the actual issue?
Pull your point plate cover, and see if you have 12v at your points. With a plug in one of the caps, (probably #4, it's the one closest to you while testing the points) laying on the side of the head and with the key on, you should get a spark to jump if you open and shut left side 1-4 points with a screwdriver.
You might verify that the gap on the points is about the width of a cardboard matchbook cover.
How many miles on the bike since the last tune-up?
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