Carb float bowl gaskets

Sprite eye CraZ, yes there is an approx 45degree splice where the ends meet. I purchase this o-ring material in bulk from the O-Ring Store. And Ed I suppose since You might not get up at 3am like i have to but did You get that email concerning shipping the semi complete KZ900 stuff? Regardless, YES i share Your concern pertaining to "creeping" and consistency of torque over a period of time under heat/natural degradation of o-ring stock used and "not" being in a confined land on one side over a useful life. Addressing the "squish-out or creeping, Not an issue. Maintaining enough force. This is accomplished by not ham-fisting down initially but uniformly, You can feel/denote when it's solid using the correct pan head phillips screws, not those often over torqued allen sets. Using the captured split washer panhead screws the tension in the split washer over time compensates for material relaxation. Don't know if You,ve ever been around the old CB160's but the carbs slant foreword and are notorious for being a weeping mess. And that was an early Keihin which used a "flat" rubber gasket like the similiar CBseries back in the day. This procedure quickly resolved the issue with the 160. Slimjim, got all your next publication ready for print yet? And, no commercial/Amazon available for this, all done the artisan way one at a time depending on application.      

Hildebrand = junk. I’m open to trying the Viton ones from AireValley. 

Cra-z1 wrote:

You can buy o-ring material and cut to size which is what he has done I believe. I have heard of people doing this with their bowls but haven't tried it yet. I just made a set of gaskets from a rubberized gasket material for the VM28 carbs because I couldn't bring myself to ordering a set. I had one as a guide. They turned out pretty good but we will see once they are on the bike. 

If you look at his photo there is a splice
 

We've cut gaskets too.  At least slmjim has. The Lovely Z1BEBE sez it's too tedious. This from a woman who spends hundreds of hours piecing together king-size quilts from 4" squares arranged just so.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Mikaw wrote:

Hildebrand = junk. I’m open to trying the Viton ones from AireValley. 
 

Just ordered a viton set from Airevalley for my Z2A

If those Airevalley replacements provide what's needed that's all one needs and i applaud someone's effort/insight and production!! Perhaps my concept is too daunting for the average or even highly competent wrench, not that You couldn't duplicate and/or maybe thought about it? You have to realize i just don't exclusively work on these bikes. So i had to find a "common", practicable, cost effective, expeditious (whereas bits have been long since unavailable) and still be fully functional over a period of time. Here's a set of the early 70's Suzuki T250 carbs and a set of the Solex Lancia Fulvia, everyday is a new adventure, Yeah!  And some other stuff i've since completed, everyone is Happy and that's the name of the game.       

Nce work!

I have successfully 3D printed float bowl gaskets and pilot plugs...
The printer material is Polyurethane, 92 shore hardness.



H.

That 3-D tech for the hobbyist sure has taken off. Have a friend that does my painting 3-D two complete functional guitars!! A good seller i believe would be those red push/pull Hazard buttons for the 77-80 KZ LH switchblocks.   

Like these little buggers. Perhaps more of an injection molding procedure though?

I think a leaky gasket is a problem, but also a symptom of other issues that should be addressed.  Leaky petcock, improper float settings or leaking float valves come to mind.  All should be part of regular maintenance.  

I really like the Keyster gaskets.  They have a "sponginess" to them that I haven't found in any other gasket.  I don't have gasket leaks, but I address all of the above issues.  

Those "pesky" red push/pull Hazard buttons are a perfect candidate for 3D printing!

If someone could post a few more views of it, and some dimensions, especially the area where it attaches to the white plastic "switch block" that holds the copper contact and spring-ball, I will give it my best shot!

H.

If You choose to take on this "outside the box" thinking, I'll make it simple for You. I'll send You a couple original sets of the lower switchblock castings and parts shown for first-hand inspection. Then experiment! Just will need address for posting.

howardhb wrote:

Those "pesky" red push/pull Hazard buttons are a perfect candidate for 3D printing!



H.

Would love to have one of these. If anyone could do I'm sure you could Howard !