Torque Wrench?

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12 Nov 2010 01:31 #412342 by mtbspeedfreak
Torque Wrench? was created by mtbspeedfreak
Howdy gents, I'm in the market for a torque wrench [I don't know my own strength at times :lol: ].

Any recommendations for manufacturer (Snap On is slightly out of my price range haha) and the actual torque range.

Kobalt (Lowes brand) seems surprisingly decent- at $80 you can afford to replace it every year or two.

2000 ZRX 1100
1976 KZ 900- Daily Driver
1980 LTD 550- Dalton Highway survivor!

If it has tits or tires, it'll give you problems!

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12 Nov 2010 03:17 - 12 Nov 2010 03:19 #412343 by Mcdroid
Replied by Mcdroid on topic Torque Wrench?
Buy two...and they don't have to be the expensive variety. I have a 1/4" drive in inch-pounds and a 3/8" drive in foot-pounds. I bought mine from Harbor Freight (inexpensive Taiwanese brand torque wrenches) and then had them checked against known values (done by expensive torque wrenches) and the comparison was surprisingly close. Just take care of them and they should last years (mine have). It has been my experience that the Home Handyman-type stores (Lowes, Home Depot, Sutherland's, etc.) tend not to be oriented to the auto mechanic and don't have a wide selection of automotive tools.

Michael
Victoria, Texas

1982 GPz750
1977 KZ1000A
1978 KZ1000A
1982 GPz1100
1975 Z2A

Last edit: 12 Nov 2010 03:19 by Mcdroid.

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12 Nov 2010 05:14 #412350 by hal0tw0
Replied by hal0tw0 on topic Torque Wrench?
A mechanic friend said youre supposed to unlock them after using it....say youve just torqued some lug nuts and set it on 100 ft/lbs, after youre done,release the lock so there is no tension on it. It supposed to keep it calibrated better.
Sounds logical to me, anyone know or hear this?

1976 KA900. VM28 pumper carbs, K&N pod fiters, RC performace 4/1 exhaust, Dyna ignition, Accel coils and wires, Ohlins rear shocks.....more to come
The following user(s) said Thank You: PLUMMEN

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12 Nov 2010 06:47 #412358 by Mcdroid
Replied by Mcdroid on topic Torque Wrench?
hal0tw0 wrote:

A mechanic friend said youre supposed to unlock them after using it....say youve just torqued some lug nuts and set it on 100 ft/lbs, after youre done,release the lock so there is no tension on it. It supposed to keep it calibrated better.
Sounds logical to me, anyone know or hear this?


Yes, I have been told the same thing...I keep no tension on mine when not in use.

Michael
Victoria, Texas

1982 GPz750
1977 KZ1000A
1978 KZ1000A
1982 GPz1100
1975 Z2A

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12 Nov 2010 07:46 - 22 Jan 2013 01:27 #412365 by H1Vindicator
Replied by H1Vindicator on topic Torque Wrench?

Last edit: 22 Jan 2013 01:27 by H1Vindicator.

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12 Nov 2010 08:54 - 12 Nov 2010 09:09 #412385 by dejavoodo41
Replied by dejavoodo41 on topic Torque Wrench?
I prefer the beam style torque wrenches. I have a craftsman 3/8 inch beam style that I paid around $25 for brand new. It handles most of what I need to do. The 3/8 goes to 75lbs. and the 1/2 goes to 150lbs.

3/8 www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00944690000P

1/2 www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944642000P

1977 KZ1000A With 1980 KZ1000A MKII engine, Wiseco 1105 kit, Dyna S Ignition, 3 Ohm Dyna Coils, Cams, Mikuni RS34 Carbs, Vance and Hines Pro Pipe with Comp Baffle

New Smyrna Beach, FL
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Last edit: 12 Nov 2010 09:09 by dejavoodo41.

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12 Nov 2010 09:30 #412396 by wargoth
Replied by wargoth on topic Torque Wrench?
Remember, if you dent or drop any torque wrench, it is trash. It will never be accurate again without calibration at a shop.
I like the Husky brand sold at Home Dep. Sturdy, easy to use and inexpensive. The Craftsman with the little hole in the handle to see the value is made by J&S Technologies and are considered a top industry brand.
Good ranges for owning these specialized tools is approx. 25-250 in/lb and 10-150 ft/lb. Remember to change torques ranges(ft/lb to in/lb)the formula is: in/lb X 12=ft/lb. Also keep in mind all driving tools should be kept straight off the head (ie. socket and extension) or at 90 deg. to the handle using any kind of offset driver (ie. using an allen wrench in socket to turn wrench to get under cylinder)
Always set tool to within lowest %10 of range to preserve the spring set inside the handle, they collapse like fork springs do too, but much more easily. Never use any lubricants on the torque wrench, this may cause the values to change.

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14 Nov 2010 13:01 #412714 by mtbspeedfreak
Replied by mtbspeedfreak on topic Torque Wrench?
Craftsman has a decent 10-75 ft-lb one for $80 as well. Craftsman > Kobalt in my own humble opinion. They also have a "Digitorque" version for $120 that goes from 5-80 ft/lbs.

Or *drum-roll please* they sell an electronic version for $220 that goes from 10-100 ft/lbs AND can be switched to 120-1200 in/lbs AND (for all you riding Japansese bikes :lol: ) 13.6-135.6 Newton/meters AND it comes with a case!

www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00...hanic+Tools&prdNo=12

But you need batteries to use it.

2000 ZRX 1100
1976 KZ 900- Daily Driver
1980 LTD 550- Dalton Highway survivor!

If it has tits or tires, it'll give you problems!

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14 Nov 2010 15:00 - 14 Nov 2010 16:12 #412730 by Patton
Replied by Patton on topic Torque Wrench?
mtbspeedfreak wrote:

...in the market for a torque wrench...Any recommendations for manufacturer (Snap On is slightly out of my price range...Kobalt (Lowes brand) seems surprisingly decent....

Forget those shade tree brands, and get an original genuine Black Forest brand torque wrench. These wrenches have no equal, and are scientifically calibrated to the precise German Virgin Standard, which in most applications specify the Guttentite setting. :laugh:

It's high time to move beyond the time-honored Redneck technique of "Twist until it strips, then back off 1/2 turn."

Good Fortune! :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Last edit: 14 Nov 2010 16:12 by Patton.

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14 Nov 2010 15:43 #412757 by mtbspeedfreak
Replied by mtbspeedfreak on topic Torque Wrench?
Patton wrote:

mtbspeedfreak wrote:

Twist until it strips, then back off 1/2 turn


...been there before :silly:

I spent a few moments trying to find Black Forest tools and turned up nothing. Was that sarcasm [in which case German virgins can calibrate my tools anytime] or do I need to brush up on my searching [and risk finding German virgins actually calibrating tools]. :woohoo:


2000 ZRX 1100
1976 KZ 900- Daily Driver
1980 LTD 550- Dalton Highway survivor!

If it has tits or tires, it'll give you problems!

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14 Nov 2010 16:19 #412771 by Patton
Replied by Patton on topic Torque Wrench?
All tongue-in-cheek.
Has been edited by adding laugh emoticon.:laugh:

Any of the other brands mentioned would imo be a good choice.

I use the relatively inexpensive Craftsman beam style versions in 1/4" and 3/8" models, which have served well for many years.

Good Fortune! :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD

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16 Nov 2010 16:56 #413068 by bountyhunter
Replied by bountyhunter on topic Torque Wrench?
Mcdroid wrote:

Buy two...and they don't have to be the expensive variety. I have a 1/4" drive in inch-pounds and a 3/8" drive in foot-pounds. I bought mine from Harbor Freight (inexpensive Taiwanese brand torque wrenches) and then had them checked against known values (done by expensive torque wrenches) and the comparison was surprisingly close.

I did exactly the same thing: beam wrenches are basically foolproof so you can use them to calibrate the "clickers" and make sure they are on. The thing about torque wrenches is you need three or four to cover the full range like:

0-150 foot pounds

0-50 Foot pounds

0-600 Inch pounds

0-200 Inch pounds

You NEVER want to try to use a torque wrench at less than about 25% of it's full range because the accuracy will suck, that's when you go to the next lower range wrench.

This is why you see so many camshaft cap bolts stripped because the spec is about 90 Inch pounds and most people don't have a low range wrench that is accurate that low.

Harbor Freight has some cheap wrenches that cover a wide range. I have two of theirs, one craftsman beam wrench and a couple of no-name beam wrenches in various ranges.

1979 KZ-750 Twin

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