Confused with KZ750 L3 manufacturing years - my new bike

  • Nessism
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05 Jul 2020 12:55 - 05 Jul 2020 12:56 #829864 by Nessism
Conventional wisdom is to skip the sealer unless you can't get all the rust out using acid or something like Evaporust. If you do seal, be sure to NOT use Kreem. That stuff has a horrid reputation.
Last edit: 05 Jul 2020 12:56 by Nessism.

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  • Coreyeinarson_27@hotmail.com
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05 Jul 2020 13:10 #829866 by Coreyeinarson_27@hotmail.com
Replied by Coreyeinarson_27@hotmail.com on topic Confused with KZ750 L3 manufacturing years - my new bike
@Nessism, following cleaning the carbs I was having problems getting the bike started. Before putting the old fuel in the tank I filled the tank with new premium to test the bike. When I took the carbs out (pilot jets were still plugged) the float bowls had rusty fuel you could say in them. This was after a new tank filter AND putting an inline filter just to be safe. I did the bolt and vinegar method before going toilet bowl and BBs. I would just feel more confident sealing it. Going to use por 15 tank sealer as I've read good reviews

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11 Jul 2020 16:05 #830398 by Skidmark
I used the POR15 tank sealer on my tank. It came out really well, but I am not anywhere near the point in my build to put fuel in it. All I can say from my experience is this - follow all prep instructions to the letter. Your best results with any product is to not cut any corners or eliminate recommended steps. I used the POR15 Cleaner/Degreaser before sealing per the tank sealer instructions. I also used a phosphoric acid solution to eliminate the rust, and switched from a water rinse to a denatured alcohol rinse. Any water rinse will flash rust. Your pre-sealer surface prep is the key to success with tank sealers.

Retired gearhead
'81 KZ-750 E2
'87 Suzuki Savage 650 Street Tracker (lost in the shop fire)
The following user(s) said Thank You: Scirocco, Coreyeinarson_27@hotmail.com

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