KZ440 Resto

Well I have a 1982 KZ440 LTD A3 and I am restoring it to be my daily mode of transportation. I suspect it will be a long road ahead of me but I am making some headway. I will post pics and details along the way when I can. What I need is some help. By help I mean parts, for sell or trade so I can get this thing running. I have been looking on Ebay and I have found some parts that I need but I also want to check here to see if any of you have parts I could use.

What I need first is a starter relay then a master cylinder and front brake lever. Next I need rear coilovers as both are toast. I don't need new just usable and safe parts.

1. Starter Relay/Solenoid...what other bikes use the same relay?
2. Rear Shocks...what can I supplement for the factory shocks?
3. The master cylinder...does it have to be a stock piece or can I use anyone that uses the same connections?

Those are the main things right now and should make the bike ridable. So if ANYONE can help me out and has parts please let me know. Thanks.

I do not know that model very well.
But I can tell you if you look up the parts you need at Kawasaki's parts finder. Then click the part you need. Then click the yellow flag and it will list all the different bikes that share thae same part.

JohNLA wrote:

if you look up the parts you need at Kawasaki's parts finder. Then click the part you need. Then click the yellow flag and it will list all the different bikes that share that same part.

No sh*t, That is kool as heck.

I ride a '81 KZ440 A2! There is a guy on ebay who sells nice new master cylinders for around $50 but you could get a used one for a lot less probably.

There are a few KZ440 starter solenoid's on ebay right now for around $20-$30 shipped.

As for shocks, how worn out are yours? If you get used ones, get a set that was on a low mileage bike. I'm not sure what new shocks are compatible. I thought mine were to loose when I first got the bike but now I like them as long as I'm riding solo. The KZ440 isn't really a good bike for two anyway imo.

So, it sounds to me that you don't have a whole lot to keep you from getting her going. Make sure your tires aren't too old or cracked/worn.

I'd love to see some photos of your bike if you have any!

EasyRider1 wrote:

I ride a '81 KZ440 A2! There is a guy on ebay who sells nice new master cylinders for around $50 but you could get a used one for a lot less probably.

There are a few KZ440 starter solenoid's on ebay right now for around $20-$30 shipped.

As for shocks, how worn out are yours? If you get used ones, get a set that was on a low mileage bike. I'm not sure what new shocks are compatible. I thought mine were to loose when I first got the bike but now I like them as long as I'm riding solo. The KZ440 isn't really a good bike for two anyway imo.

So, it sounds to me that you don't have a whole lot to keep you from getting her going. Make sure your tires aren't too old or cracked/worn.

I'd love to see some photos of your bike if you have any!

Thanks everyone...my rear shocks are pitted and rusty but they do work. I am not to big on taking chances with parts I think are iffy I guess you could say. I have some pics posted here:
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...w&id=210599&catid=10

I should have a relay here pretty soon thanks to a cool guy here on this forum, so thats all good. I have been playing with and cleaning my carbs...lots of goo inside of them and alot of clogged up stuff but I am making headway. More to come soon with pics.

I got the bike to run today on its own using gas from the gas tank and not TB cleaner. I had to remove the carbs again and this time cleaned them like I was going to be eating off of them and I used some Elmers glue on the diaphragms to seal the very small tears on both of them. I put the carbs back on the bike and she fired right up!! She is running kinda rough where with the choke on it's at 4,000rpm and when I turn the choke off it's at about 1,300rpm and runs that way for a few minutes and then it shuts off. I did put a small amount of Seafoam in the tank and I think that is causing some popping. Also I haven't fully bolted down the alternator cover and I think that is causing a problem too.

I need a starter BAD, this one is foooked up and is kinda grinding a little bit and barely wants to turn most of the time. The battery is perfect though. the oil is slightly low in the engine but still above the low line but just barely.

Hi A3440,

You said you used "Elmers glue on the diaphragms to seal the very small tears on both of them". What sort of Elmer's glue are you using? I don't know of any Elmer's product that might help on a carb diaphragm.

KZCSI

KZCSI wrote:

Hi A3440,

You said you used "Elmers glue on the diaphragms to seal the very small tears on both of them". What sort of Elmer's glue are you using? I don't know of any Elmer's product that might help on a carb diaphragm.

KZCSI

I used just regular plain old white Elmer's Glue...specifically it is called Elmer's Glue-All Multi-Purpose Glue. The reason I gave it a try is because when it cures (turns from white to clear) it is pretty strong and kind of rubbery. I applied a small amount on the tear near the very outside edge where it seals in the groove. I let it dry completely before I put it all back together. I did not use alot but just enough to cover about 1mm around the cut in the diaphragm...seems to be holding well. I will let you know how long it last if I start having problems with the carbs. Just make sure the rubber is clean and dry before you put on the glue.

Edit: I put it on the topside only, by that I mean the side of the diaphragm where the spring is.

I did some work on the 440 today, oil change and filter change. I put the factory airbox and filter back in and now she stays running. I am having a problem with the idle though and hopefully someone can help me solve it. My idle with the choke off is hanging pretty high until I manually push on a bolt between the carbs to bring it back down as you will see me do in the video. The bike is popping and spitting a little bit as you may also hear in the video. Also I posted two pics of my new alternator cover bolts. Let me know what you all think, I really want to ride her soon...real soon.

In order for your bike to run correctly it is imperative that you have the air filter installed correctly. It's about a fifty fifty chance that you did it right. To check this open the seat grab the very back of the filter and lift up. If it moves upwards you did it wrong. There is a lip at the bottom that has to slide into the airbox before you attach the 2 top screws. This will make a huge difference in how your bike runs.

You are 100% correct...I remember it moving after I put the screws in and thinking that doesn't seem sealed...I will have to fix that in the morning....thank you very much.

The airbox was not seated properly but now it is. I took off the front tire today and had a tire shop put air in it and found many leaks around the bead, they fixed that up real good so now my front tire is fine again. The idle...well here is a pic of what I push on to settle the idle down. If I keep some pressure on the screw when I let off the throttle, the idle will come down very fast back to it's normal idle. If I do not hold pressure on the screw when I wrap the throttle the idle will hang up high until I push the screw down. I adjusted the slack properly for the throttle cable so that is not making it "stick" I guess would be the term. There has to be some way to fix this problem, please tell me I can fix this problem...and what is this screw for? lol

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