I surfed the electrical forum, and saw a very similar issue.

This is the current set-up....

Someone please tell me what is wrong here, it looks OK to me.

Ok Need help again !!

I am down to the horn and the turn signals, the horn I will worry about last. The turn signals:

Reasonably certain I need two flashers, one for the turn signal, and one for "hazards". It looks like the two are linked, so if you do not have one, the other will not work. I have purchased a solid state flasher for the LED turn signals, this unit plugged in does not flash, nor do I have power at the signal light connectors.

I have attached a photo of the hazard relay on the wiring diagram. I do not have anything like this on my harness presently, should I have one? There is one brown connector near the fuel tank, and it looks like it should be hooked up to this hazard relay, but I don't see the Red or the orange wire anywhere near it.

I have a 1979 LTD, a set of 1982 police wheels and a 1982 GS1100 swingarm.

I want to find a KZ1300 front rim, add my police rear rim and do a build like mjg 15 did on his GPZ.
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/397729...l=component&type=raw

I have a couple of questions?
1.If I use a KZ1300 front rim. Do I need to use KZ1000 Police rotors on the 1300 rim for brakes?
2. What Police triples would work? Do the old police triple trees use a regular KZ stem for a front end swap?
3. Do I need a 70's Police triple tree to use my 1979 LTD1000 dash? (If so, what years)


Going to mock up the 1979 LTD into something "kinda" like this.
(Nothing I'm going to race. Just a toy to have fun with.)

Thanks in advance

Hey guys,

Last year I bought a 1982 Kawasaki KZ 750 Spectre (and posted about it here). I've driven over 7,000 miles on it since then and have started noticing some problems so I've teared it down and working on rebuilding it. Anyways, I have a few questions that I hope you guys might be able to help me with:

- What is the stock throttle cable length? I replaced the handlebars with a lower style and the throttle cable is now over extended, causing some problems when turning the handlebar to the right or left. If no one knows, I'll take it off and measure it so I can order one a couple inches shorter. I'd just rather know before tearing it off.

- What other starter motors work for this model besides the one that came stock? Ebay is turning up no results for an actual starter motor for this bike, but I'm sure tons of bikes used the same starter.

- Would you recommend updating to steel braided brake lines? I took rough estimates of the front brake lines and I found a set (32" or 34", not sure exactly which size yet) for $36.

- Any tips on where to find the bolts that fasten the rims to the front wheel? As I was taking the torque screws out and all but one of them were fine...of course one of them was rounded out so I'm currently trying to figure out how to get the thing out, but I also need to find a replacement. They aren't standard bolts and I can't find any info on it from part diagrams online.

I have a Haynes manual on its way, so hopefully that will take care of most of my other questions (and maybe even these), but until then I'm somewhat shooting in the dark. So far my rebuild plan is as follows:

* Replaced solenoid relay
* Replace starter motor
* Replace clutch plates (have them)
* Replace brake lines
* Replace exhaust to 4 -1 MAC exhaust (ordered)
* Replace all outside bolts with stainless steel replacements and replace all old/damaged bolts
* Reshape the seat to a flatter looking style. I hate the giant hump in the seat.
* New throttle cable
* Replace auto cam chain tensioner with manual cam chain tensioner (have it)
* I'm having my carbs sent out to be professionally cleaned and synchronized
* Have all engine side covers, kick stand, foot pegs, passenger foot pegs, headlight bracket, wheels, handlebar, swingarm, etc sent out for powder coating (almost done disassembling)
* Get tank and fenders repainted (if interested, I can post my mock ups)
* And now for the most controversial change, air pods. I know I might get some flak from this and I have researched this tirelessly. I really dislike the way the airbox looks and I've grown extremely tired of affixing the breather tubes to the carbs. I have to rejet the carbs anyways due to the 4-1 exhaust so I mine as well go all the way since I already ordered the dyno jet kit.

I'll probably have more questions as I go along, but I'm hoping to have this completed by early August. Let me know if you have any answers to my questions, suggestions, etc. I'll try and update with pictures.

Thank you for reading!

today i put a kz 1000 engine in a cb 750 frame with a gs swing arm and xs wheels pics to follow

Mcdroid wrote:

Jo Show wrote: Thank you. I appreciate the input. Somethings can be worth paying for, but was curious about the shipping charges, etc.
I would like to think I could get things like the Earl's oil cooler here in the States. The closest I can come to the Morris wheels are Marvics at about $1200 each!!!

Shipping charges from the UK can be fearsome...not much we can do about that...additionally, if you are time-constrained in your build...it can take up to a month for material to make it here from the UK...customs issues.

It has been my experience that this may not necessarily be true...
I ordered a Kerker exhaust from Dennis Kirk on line and a Metmachex swingarm direct from the manufacturer some years ago. The swingarm was on my porch in less than a week :ohmy: and the pipe came in later, after 10 days or so? :dry:

One of the most important things with this build ,for me, is to get the lines right. Ive seen many projects on this site and others,where a lot of work and money has been put into something and when it gets to the final stages and you see the bike altogether, something just dosnt look right, A lot of it is down to personal taste and I never liked the stretched look or the kicked up backend. I remember back in the 80's a lot of 'Streetfighters' had the arse kicked up so high,you could bang the back of your head on them. God knows how they handled.
Anyway,I want to get the proportions right on this thing from the start.
'Mock up' time.




I dont have the room in my workplace to be able to stand back and look at everything, Plus I need the workplace for 'work', so Ive built a table to put the bike on that I can roll out into the corridor.

Now I can get a better view of things.

ZX9r front end, GS1100 swingarm and Im still waiting for a GSXR750/1100 back wheel.Ive got the original CSR wheel in it for now and jacked up to the right height as the GSXR ( more or less).
So far,so good.
Once I get the back wheel on it, Ill get a better idea of things. Exhaust clearence was a big worry with dropping the front end from the CSR's 85cm (33,46 inch) to the ZX9r's 77cm (30.14 inch) but it looks like it might be ok.
Im also not sure about the rear of the subframe.As it sits,the 'Ducktail' I had in mind wont work. It sits too high and the line is wrong, So,either I cut the subframe down and put a loop in it , or I forget about the ;Ducktail' and go with something else. Not sure what to do yet.
Anyway, back wheel first,then well see whats what.

Also picked up a 2004 gsxr 600 swing arm, most likely will be mounting it upside dwn and using the stock kz suspension. Any thoughts on mounting it upside dwn?

Heres how it stands at the moment. Original forks ,swingarm and wheels.


Anyone whos looked into a swingarm swap on this website will recognize the GS1100 Swingarm.
[attachment:2]DSC04444.JPG[/attachment

Though from what Ive read, Fitting in the frame is a simple matter of spacing with a couple of washers. Its going to take a bit more than a couple of washers to fill this. The CSR frame must be wider at the pivot bolt than the other
900/1000 frames. Be aware.



Also The GS1100 should be 1 1/2 to 2 inches (3.5 to 5.0cm) longer than the standard swingarm. Not so with the CSR. Im measuring original swingarm at 46cm (18.1 inch)

and the GS1100 swingarmat 47cm (18.5)


Which is good news as it'll mean I wont lose any height at the back end.Though I will still need to change the shocks as the mounts are different.

PLUMMEN wrote: Before you get all wound up spending money where you don't need it heres a couple of ideas for ya.
Have the crankshaft checked to make sure its straight and rods don't have an extra side play,then have the pins tig welded.Its doesn't need to be done by a fancy shop like falicon.
Have the trans checked for worn dogs or shift forks,no need to get too fancy.
Theres lots of guys drag racing old kz's with mountains of hp with stock transmisions.
Id suggest spending money on a new cam chain and parts associated with it,these are high where items that will beat your budget up pretty fast but will give you more bang for your buck than a fancy crank and trans.
1075 kit will definitely put some spunk in the motor,a good stage 1/street porting job from larry will work good with that.
Id stick with something more in the .365-.375 range with the cams myself
Id also find a set of the old 28mm pumper carbs off a 79-80 1000 to save some money.
Now is the part that is really going to blow the budget,but I consider it more important than a hot rod motor for a streetbike.
The single disc on front and drum brake on rear was under powered to stop that bike in stock form,let alone a warmed over 1075.
I suggest if nothing else atleast put dual discs on the front(rebuild forks also)
If you have money in the budget Id suggest getting a hold of kz1006,hes a member on here.And see if he has a rear wheel/brake/swingarm and associated parts from a 77-78 kz1000 laying around.
That way you have disc brakes front/rear,tell him you need a brake pedal/master cylinder also.
A decent pair of rear shocks is also a badly needed improvement,along with good tires.

Thanks for such in depth advice!

I have decided not to go to crazy with the motor. Pretty much the plan with it now is to go 1075, get the crank welded, have everything checked as you said, and replace all those annoyingly pricey parts.

As for the head, Ive decided to just do basic refreshing on it without going crazy. So basically just refurbished stock cams and setup.

I was definitely planning on getting at the very least the dual discs on the front. I didnt know I could do the rear with the 1000 setup, so I am sure I will end up doing that. It may be after most of it is done though.

Im really hoping I can manage upgrading the small things, like brake lines, headlight, ignition, etc. I did buy a dyna already, so that was exciting.

Im pretty much wanting to upgrade what I can without going too far from a stock look. One thing I was considering was an oil cooler. Not sure though.


Got in contact with a powdercoater, should be getting a quote on Monday!