My advice is to try to find a complete swing arm including rims/brakes/wheel and tire etc. if possible.
I used one from a 1990 GSXR 1100 ............12mm offset front sprocket / 530 chain .......180/55R17 tire.
Only thing then to do is to have sleeve machined for smaller pivot bolt.....weld on shock mounts as previously mentioned. Not that difficult!!!! Heres some pics of my install

Welcome aboard! Bike looks really nice!!!

Here are some tips that you may find helpful; some may be different that your Honda experience:

Many newbies and not so newbies run into or issues with their bikes which could be easily avoided with a little preparation or information. Here are a couple recommendations that I hope you will find useful.

Before riding your KZ you should take a little time to become familiar with it. Simple things like checking the oil, tire pressures, etc. are explained in the Kawasaki Owner's Manual. If you bike didn't come with one (they normally are in a little holder on the bottom of the seat) you can usually find one on eBay - be sure to get one for your exact year/model.


MANUAL

You really should consider buying the Kawasaki Factory Service Manual for your bike. The factory service manual provides instructions on the various maintenance procedures and schedules for your bike, procedures for diagnosing problems, proper torque values for the various fasteners (VERY IMPORTANT), and insight into how each system on your bike works even if you are not repairing that system. Studying the manual before you attempt performing service on your bike will impart an understanding of the system you are working on which will increase the odds of success.

The manuals usually are readily available for most models on eBay and other sources; but be sure to get one that has your specific year and model in it as there are differences between the various KZ650 models. I do not recommend Clymers, Haynes, or other aftermarket manuals as I have seen instances where they provide inaccurate advice. You may decide to use those to supplement the factory manual, but in my opinion they are not a suitable substitute. If you have trouble finding one for your model ask us to help.


TOOLS

WARNING! Do not even try to use Phillips screwdrivers on the Kawasaki cross head screws. Despite their appearance they are not Phillips screws. They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screws. The tips of Phillips screwdrivers are too long & pointed to allow the 4 blades of the screwdriver to properly engage the screws, so when you apply force the screw head slots will deform and look like crap. The fact is that Phillips screws were deliberately designed to have the screwdriver bit "cam out." This was done to prevent production line assembly from over-tightening, stripping, or breaking the screws. JIS screws do not have this problem. A proper fitting JIS bit can tighten a JIS screw to and beyond the torque spec without camming out. Here's the good news - you can easily modify standard Phillips screwdriver tips to fit the JIS screws.

I have ground down the tips of DeWalt #2 and DeWalt #3 Phillips to make them fit JIS screws. The large crosshead screws on the cases take modified #3 bits (or genuine #3 JIS bits). To modify the DeWalt bits you need to grind the very tip a little, then test fit, then grind a little more and test fit, etc. until the bit no longer "rocks" back and forth in the screwhead. Picture 1 below shows how a DeWalt #3 bit fits the case screws of my KZ650 after being ground properly. The #2 DeWalt bits can be modified the same way to fit smaller JIS screws. Pictures 2 and 3 below shows DeWalt #2 and #3 modified bits.

I did find a place that sells authentic JIS bits. They don't list the #3 bit, but if you contact them they can provide the #3 JIS bits even though they are not listed on the website. These folks were very easy to work with, and the authentic bits do work great. Here's their site:

www.rjrcooltools.com/shop_item_detail.cfm?subcat_ID=89

Pictures 4 & 5 below show a comparison between my home made modified bits with the authentic JIS bits.

PICTURE 1

PICTURE 2

PICTURE 3

PICTURE 4

PICTURE 5

Before reaching for that wrench or ratchet consider the following. The bolts are steel, but your engine and front forks are aluminum. The bolts are much tougher than the aluminum and if over tightened will strip the aluminum threads. Although these can be repaired, preventing damage by applying proper torque will save you grief, time, and money. Tightening fasteners properly requires torque wrenches. Various vendors, including Snap-on, CDI, Sears, etc., market torque wrenches. The two most popular types are the bar type and micrometer type. Either will work, but the micrometer type is a bit easier to use, especially if you are tightening several fasteners with the same torque - such as cylinder head covers. You will need a torque wrench calibrated in INCH POUNDS for many of the bolts. You will also need a torque wrench calibrated in FOOT POUNDS for the larger bolts. Don't try to use the foot pounds wrench on the smaller bolts as it will not be sensitive enough at low torque settings to provide accurate torque. There are many fasteners that require low torque. These include such things as 6mm oil pan bolts, cylinder head cover bolts, etc. for which the torque in 61-78 inch pounds. These low torque bolts require a wrench that is accurate at low settings and this wrench should be graduated in inch pounds. In addition, there are numerous high torque fasteners such as the front axle nuts (51 - 65 foot pounds) or swing arm pivot shaft nuts (58 - 87 foot pounds). These require a wrench that is accurate at higher settings; this wrench should be graduated in foot pounds. Using the proper torque wrenches to correctly tighten fasteners will help prevent damage and contribute to a safe bike. The Kawasaki Service Manual will list the various torque specs for the bolts. I suggest you get the manual before buying the torque wrenches so you can decide which wrenches best meet the torque specs.

Consider buying a can of Kroil penetrating oil and use it to soak stubborn fasteners for a couple days before trying to loosen them. Remember, the original screws and bolts were installed on your bike when Jimmy Carter was President, so many of them may be hard to remove. Kroil can be bought online, at guns shows, and at some other venues.


MOTOR OIL
The ingredients in oils have changed over the years. For example, today's Castrol GTX oil (and pretty much all other AUTOMOBILE oil) is not the same as it was in the 1980's. Back then it worked great in KZ bikes. But, things have changed. Early AUTOMOBILE oils contained zinc phosphorus compounds (ZDDP) to protect engine components from metal to metal contact. This was good for engines, but it was found to be destructive to catalytic converters. Consequently, in AUTOMOBILE oils ZDDP was virtually eliminated and replaced with different chemistry generically referred to as "Friction Modifiers." These work fine and offer good protection for normal AUTOMOBILE engines. However, today's AUTOMOBILE oil "Friction Modifiers" are destructive to wet clutches. KZ bikes (and many other brands) have wet clutches. As a result of these oil chemistry changes a distinction needed to be made between those oils which are suitable for wet clutches and those which are not. That distinction was documented by the Japanese Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel (JASO). JASO developed a number of different oil specifications for different applications. The specifications that apply to 4 stroke motorcycles fall under the "4T Specifications." Within the 4T specifications the JASO MA class oils are specifically formulated for 4 stroke motorcycles with wet clutches.

There are synthetic, semi-synthetic, and non-synthetic oils that meet the JASO-MA standard and any of them will work ok. However, using oils that are not designated as meeting the JASO-MA standard is destructive to KZ clutches.

Good luck with your bike. Ed

Bike looks fantastic Espen. I see why you want a different back wheel though. I had a look through my build thread and found this from Leon,Swingarms that should work.

97-03 gsxr 600 (no upper brace)
92 gsxr 1100 (no upper or lower brace)
those should install much like the gs arm.
these will take some modification but have been used on kz's in the past (and present)
99-07 busa needs upper brace removed(possibly lower brace added)
03-04 zx6/636 needs the pivot machined narrower
01-05 fz1 needs the pivot machined narrower
these will all need shock brackets added for dual shocks if thats what you want.
i'm sure there are others but these have all been used on kz's in the past.
what you have to watch is that the pivot doesn't get to wide to where it can't be machined down to narrow it.
hth,
leon

---

I used a GSXR 600 (2001-2003) in mine.
Things needed to be done to get it to fit;
Small diameter Z pivot bolt needed sleeved to fit the swing arm
Spacers either side of the pivot to fit the arm in the frame.
Chain adjusters needed adapting to take the small diameter axle
Shock mounts needed to be fabricated and welded on.
Passenger footrest/exhaust mount had to come off for clearence.

As for the wheel,I used an early 600 Bandit ,Though I think theyre all pretty much the same .The Bandit brakecaliper bracket and wheel spacers also fit and Ive added some loose washers to get the wheel centered. Ill have full size spacers made up eventually.I fitted a 160 tyre then I measured the distance twixt the tyre and the frame rail and was able to calculate how much to shave off the sprocket carrier to allow the chain to run true without rubbing on anything. I will also need an offset front sprocket.

Anyway good luck and keep us posted with your progress. Also,more photos would be good.

i didn't figure that there would be much wear.
i will be tackling the rebuild myself,i have the parts diagrams and an email for a tech at ohlins.
i also have the race tech suspension bible which i highly suggest for anyone wanting to work on and/or tune their own suspension.

leon

Leon,

O-ring 3.1x1.6
O-ring 33 X5

Seal Head Assy.
Piston ring
Teflon Hex band 44/5
Oil
2 springs.

The guy that did the work is also taking care of some AMA bikes. From what he told me the shocks "hard parts" hardly wear, as you can see there are piston rings and such that do wear.

Any good suspension shop can tear them down and rebuild them for you. I was going to use KFG racing in Seattle, they tuned and rebuilt the suspension on my Ducati. They would be the number one choice if you are on the west coast. I was unaware that there was a guy in the Reno, NV area that could do it, When I found out I sent them to him for a faster local turn around.

www.kfgracing.com/

very nice just curious how much needed replaced inside.
i have a pair and when i contacted ohlins the told me they didn't offer a "rebuild kit"that they just sold whatever pieces were found to be worn.

leon

As far as wringing it out goes, there is a track day at Thunder Hill in Willows, CA.

Hmmmmmmmmmm.
For now look at the new jewelry.
Ohlins shocks purchased on Ebay then rebuilt, with the proper spring rate now.

maybe i'm being an ass but after we coddled/babysat you through this build i think you owe us a nice ride video of you wringin this bad boy out !!! :evil:

leon

The Ohlins shocks Are back from the shop rebuilt and with the proper spring rate. Time to get a license plate!

'Powerplus tools'or something like that,I dont remember the exact name but twas cheap as chips and just as flexible.
It does work better with bobbins rather than the finger type things (both attachments were included) but you get what you pay for. Monkeys and peanuts etc. It does me OK and its a nice bright HONDA red!!!!.