I'm thinking that this will cover the topic of "Pods and why you shouldn't"
So you've removed the carbs for a proper cleaning and now you're having problems getting the boots between the carbs and the air box back on. You’re thinking If I just get some pod filters I wouldn’t have to be messing around trying to get these rubber boots over the carbs and into the air box, and that would be correct, except that you’re now on your own as far as tuning and airflow go.
The stock box provides a reliable and smooth airflow in all types of weather conditions, not so with pod filters which can experience different air flows caused by wetting from rain and exposure to side winds.
The airbox and stacks provide a stable smooth laminar flow to and through the carbs, the rubbers (boots) that go into the airbox from the carbs are part of this. CV's can be a nightmare to set up with pods, usually requiring a jet kit and a lot of screwing around to get close to right, If some sort of velocity stack is used it is easier. The VM's are a bit easier to set up but again, stacks of some sort make it much easier.
Folks here at KZR know that it’s better to just buy new stacks (rubber boots between the carbs) and airbox, or just soak your stiff ones in wintergreen oil to soften them up, adding some acetone to the wintergreen oil helps as well, as the stacks/rubbers harden due to out gassing, the acetone restores a bit of that.
1968 BSA 441 Shooting Star, 1970 BSA 650 Lightning, 1974 W3, 1976 KZ900, 1979 KZ750 Twin, 1979 KZ750 Twin Trike, 1981 KZ1300, 1982 KZ1100 Spectre, 2000 Valkyrie, 2009 Yamaha Roadliner S. 1983 GL 1100