TOPIC:

Dealership replaced front tire and striped the front axle clamp studs on the cycle, not impressed. Ordered new studs and nuts. The new studs have longer threads on one end, asking anyone here which end of the stud is to be threaded into the tube assembly. Reason I am asking is the nuts that that I received are the "Acorn" type which are not what was originally on the bike, the originals were standard nuts. I an concerned that the acorn nuts will bottom out on the studs before the nuts are properly torqued. Attached a photo of the original stud and nut. Any advise is appreciated.

Don't see a pic

Pull the stripped stud out and have a look at the thread lengths, they have to come out anyway, use your original nuts if they are still ok, or buy new ones, they are nothing special.....

Spade has other issues.  He had his front tire changed out and they gouged his mag rim pretty badly.  I know him.  I bought my 1980 LTD off him back in 2015 and he reached out to me looking for a good used rim.  If anyone has one that is in top condition and is willing to sell it I think he would appreciate it.

Ok, got the photo of the damaged stud attached now. I just want to ensure I install the new studs correctly, The short threaded end is what was threaded originally  into the front forks, but since I have these new "Acorn" nuts, if I install the new studs in the same manner the Acorn nuts look like they will bottom out before the required torque is achieved on the axle clamps. The old nuts are likely damaged as well. My concern is the original studs may have been installed incorectly,ie should have had the long threaded side in the fork. I can't seem to find replacement studs other than the Acorn style either.
As hardrockminer mentioned I am also looking for a front aluminum cast wheel due to damage on the sealing ridge during tire replacement. 

attachment=145369]20210403_142447.jpg[/attachment]

Photo didn’t post. 

Partzilla shows OEM studs available. It show your bike using a cap nut and spring lock washer. You can use the spring lock washer and a Fuji style self locking nut. Kawasaki 92015-1124  


 

I wouldn't worry about it too much. Whichever way you fit them will work,You're not going to run out of thread. Get rid of the dome nuts and fit regular nuts with spring washers.Or nylocs.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationAccording to the rotor date these are 1976 rotors. Not sure about the rim, I don’t think they dated the mag wheels. 

Thanks guys for the feed back regarding the axle nuts, got the correct ones now.
Still looking for a OEM/NOS front aluminum caste rim for my old girl. Tough finding a new one or one in new new condition.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

wrote:

According to the rotor date these are 1976 rotors. Not sure about the rim, I don’t think they dated the mag wheels. 



Looks like an original 76 LTD rim with the oem solid (non-drilled discs with a 1 T date code) I never knew if the were both 7mm or the thinner 5mm dual disc's??  Says Kawasaki, but I never have seen a morris mag up close to compare? Did not 76 LTD's use Morris Mags? With the rear being completely unique? 
Maybe the sun burnt LTD from the desert could compare his rim. For a $100 that is acually a deal if you are restoring a 76 LTD. I could make that rim look new if I had it.
I have this really weathered mag wheel and a set of dual drilled discs I have on a chassis I just bought to sell. Been in my truck bed for 3 weeks now!

 But that mag needs a real aggressive media blast first to get oxidation off first. I'll get a closer look soon.
I just modified a set of 7mm dual 4 bolt discs down to 5mm ones. Was going on a drag bike wheel, why waste all the extra weight with dual parts?  So decided to use them on a Lester Mag.
Plus in the middle of set of 6 bolt Z1, H2 discs, I will surface grind down to 5mm.

 

Marty,

Im almost 100% sure the rim I posted is not a Morris. First indication is the Morris has an additional ridge around the outer most diameter. Second the Morris has the valve stem centered between the spokes. Third and most distinctive the Morris has an “M” in a circle cast into the rim at the valve stem location.

My 1978 Kz1000 LTD has the additional ridge like the Morris. So I’m not sure what rim is (was) offered