TOPIC:

After studying this thing I've decided messing with the spring would be a mistake. There is a stop for the spindle that is bent in a loop. I figure if I set the needle so it reads 10 MPH less using the stop and moving the needle back to 0, it should read correctly all the way up. After a couple hundred miles the needle is steady. The odometer reads the same milage this trip as it has all the last ones.
BTW, there were CHP everywhere today. doing 70 and looking down and seeing 85-90 is truly a pucker moment. I'd better fix it soon.
Steve

It was the spring. I think I have it now and will run it for a while to let it settle in.
Steve

Looks like it's dead on by judging the traffic. If anything it's a little slow. Wags a bit. I know I need a new cable. I bought one but it's too short. I need one for a LTD or one for duel disks. I have a new one for a Z1/KZ if anyone needs one. The one on the bike now I got from Z1E in 13. I think it's a Bike Master so it didn't last long before it got sloppy.
Steve

Got the 650 Tach. Switched parts and it works good.
Steve

swest wrote: Looks like it's dead on by judging the traffic. If anything it's a little slow. Wags a bit. I know I need a new cable. I bought one but it's too short. I need one for a LTD or one for duel disks. I have a new one for a Z1/KZ if anyone needs one. The one on the bike now I got from Z1E in 13. I think it's a Bike Master so it didn't last long before it got sloppy.
Steve

Bike Master... lasted 2300 miles on my bike.
The notched end, which is crimped onto the cable end going into the drive on the front wheel, spun right off my cable.... pretty cheap.
I dug out an old junk box, factory speedo cable from my 1976 KZ900 parts bike (+40 years old!) washed the inner cable and housing (in and out), lubed the cable up with some blue water proof grease, reinstalled it .....and it has worked flawlessly for over 2000 miles now. LOL

Yeah, I can twist mine. The Tach is rock steady. All and all I wish I had done this in the first place. Live and learn.
Steve

So, is your conclusion is that the difference in calibration of the 650-750 speedo vs the 900-1015 is the clock spring tension, needle stop tab and the face plate markings?
After two rounds with the cheap aftermarket speedos, both of which went belly up in under 2500 miles... I'm thinking I'm done with those turds and could do the same as you if yes...

I'm convinced it's the spring tension. The important thing is the screw spacing on the face plate. Later models are wider. If it still wags after a new cable, I'll buy a more expensive one with less time on it. $50. It's a shame the new ones don't work.
Steve

Came across this on FB. I know they can do better but I thought it was funny.
Steve

I decided to see if I can use that stock cable. The one I have was like a loose spring. Seems to work fine though the routing is kinda strange.
Steve

It broke.
Steve

Old cable back on, lubed and ready to go.
Steve