TOPIC:

Alright, I must be missing something here. I rebuilt my rear hub, new bearings and seals, If I tighten the axle nut to the point that keeps the axle from sliding backward, the wheel is too tight to rotate. If I loosen the nut to allow the wheel to rotate. then the adjusters that only keep the wheel from sliding forward can't keep the right hand side from sliding back. This results in a nice surprise when pulling out of a right hand sweeper when the back end steps out as the wheel re-seats itself.
Anybody got any thoughts? Are there other adjusters out there I can use that will keep the axle aligned forward and back?

did you put the collar brag back in?

What manual did you use?

I used the Clymer which I found to be less than perfect. There were no pieces left over when I was finished. I noticed that if I drove the bearing that goes into the hub on the sprocket side in too far it would bind against the spacer. Is this something unique to the newer style bearings we get when we order from Z1E. They are far superior to the old ball bearings but is binding an issue?
Here are my notes on the rear hub assembly:

DiamondSkyBlue1000 wrote: I used the Clymer which I found to be less than perfect. There were no pieces left over when I was finished. I noticed that if I drove the bearing that goes into the hub on the sprocket side in too far it would bind against the spacer. Is this something unique to the newer style bearings we get when we order from Z1E. They are far superior to the old ball bearings but is binding an issue?
Here are my notes on the rear hub assembly:

I agree, the Clymer manual leaves some room for improvement on the rear hub reassembly notes.
You got to have the coupling sleeve(#13 in your illustration) in between the hub bearing and the sprocket drive hub bearing or it will lock up. Make certain the beveled edge is in the correct direction.
It's been a long time since I've installed rear hub bearings on a KZ, but on all the ones I've done, that spacer(# 19) is what loads the inner races of the bearings when the axle nut is tightened. Why would it be different on a KZ?
Make sure you have all your spacers and all the bearings are the correct width. The new bearings should be sealed.

I'll start tearing it back apart this evening. I'm worried that since we started using roller type bearings, they can't withstand much lateral force on the inner race. But it would be best for me to reinspect everything first. Thanks for your responses.

Roller bearings or ball bearings? Ed

You will have to drive the #17 bearings all the way into the hub. If you leave any play between those bearings and the #19 inner spacer the wheel will bind when you tighten the axle to full torque. When correctly installed the inner races do not rotate.

Ok, I got my build notes out and for the rear hub... I also had binding after installing new bearings…..I had to grind one end of the collar brag to eliminate the binding of the hub. I scratched my head wondering what’s wrong and narrowed it down to collar brag width. I corrected the collar brag a slight bit over several tries and got it spot on……this is only a suggestion after you trouble shot you hub and all issues. The new bearings are out of spec as too the width and cause the clearance problem.

4TheKZ1000 wrote: Ok, I got my build notes out and for the rear hub... I also had binding after installing new bearings…..I had to grind one end of the collar brag to eliminate the binding of the hub. I scratched my head wondering what’s wrong and narrowed it down to collar brag width. I corrected the collar brag a slight bit over several tries and got it spot on……this is only a suggestion after you trouble shot you hub and all issues. The new bearings are out of spec as too the width and cause the clearance problem.

....... are you saying that the new replacement bearings are wider than the stock bearings?
So that would mean the coupling sleeve(#13) is what you had to modify, right?

I think he meant (sealed)ball bearings Ed.

no not #13 its called a sleeve the long one to the right called a collar brg

www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-1978-kz1000-a2a-k...t/66392.html#results

#19 on here

Yep, I meant sealed ball bearing, not roller. I looked up the part number specs and they are indeed sealed ball bearings. They are not designed to take a lot of lateral force on the inner race. This will cause them to bind up. I do remember fiddling with the #19 spacer and the bearing inside the hub on the sprocket side. The other #17 bearings have a circlip that holds them in a certain place but that one doesn't. I thought that was strange. If I drove that bearing in as far as I could against that spacer with the opposite side bearing in place, they would bind up.
I'm not familiar with the term brag in this context. What part of the spacer is the brag?