LED taillight (kz400)

Thanks? I think. Only have it mocked up with it all just pressed together cause I don't want to cut and crimp it all without knowing it'll work and then be stuck shaving down the wiring to nothing every time I have to start over.

Thanks, will give that a try later. Given the light works as expected when I give it direct power from a battery, would that indicate the integrated circuit board is still ok?

ThatYeti wrote:

Thanks, will give that a try later. Given the light works as expected when I give it direct power from a battery, would that indicate the integrated circuit board is still ok?

The above tests will soon tell you

Ok, couple updates. Tested the stock light and it still works fine. But interestingly doesn't show a 'running' light at all, only lights up when you pull the brake lever.

Rewired the new light with bullet connectors and plugged it in. Works the same as the stock light but when the brakes are active, it does a very faint strobe. So only a slight difference from the stock unit.

Going to try testing with the multimeter but I'm very much an idiot with it so no promises.

Not sure what this means but I followed the instructions and got 1.659 when the key is on and a zero when I pull the brake lever but the meter beeps.

You need to set the meter to V-- (dc volts) it might be worth you reading my fault finding guide (link is in my signature)
PS: the wiring is now "spot on" 

Thanks and ok, switched the setting and also plugged the red wire into both the brake and running light just to be sure. Pics of each without/with the brakes on

Thatyeti, hi hope you don’t mind me chiming in. Your last pic shows meter set up correctly DC setting. Now connect black lead from your meter to Negative post on your battery or a place on the frame, then to make sure meter is working correctly touch with the red lead the Positive post on battery. See what you get, if battery is charged you should get about 12volts. Now use the red lead to touch the wires you joined. Put your red lead on one wire and hit the brakes see if you get 12volts. Do this for each wire you spliced together. It’s a troubleshooting process but this will get you handy with the meter. Patience it’s a process 

Appreciate any help, so thank for you chiming in. Will give that a shot later, and try to follow what you've got there. 

Ok tried that and got 12v from the battery I think (first pic). Trying it with the connected wires I get zero l without pulling the brakes and a tiny bump when I pull it on the brake light circuit, nothing on the running light circuit at all regardless.

Can you confirm when you took these readings that the ignition was switched on