TOPIC:

wrote:

Lou, is there an issue if that pick up plate is removed and the magnets under the plate are put back wrong?
The screw heads look stripped. So the plate has been removed.

 

Absolutely. The magnet polarity is critical.  I made a page about how to determine the polarity using several methods depending on how much science you want to use (ha).
It is even important which screws you use. Some of the screws are brass for magnetic reasons.  They need to be in the correct place, and can easily be mistakenly swapped for the steel screws.
KZ Pickup Magnet Polarity and Rotor (gpzweb.s3-website-us-east-1.amazonaws.com)

 

Speaking of meters, as you can see in the mag-polarity link I provided, One of the meters I use is the same one the original poster (OP) is using, usually available from Harbor Freight.  I have several of them, actually, among a variety of other more expensive meters, and I must say, the meters are ok, but the test leads that come with them are always flakey.  I probably have four of those Harbor Freight meters and don't have one set of the included probes that actually work.  If you get one of those meters, I highly recommend getting some different probes to use with it.  Luckily, the meter takes standard banana-plug probes.  Older, used probes from Amprobe, Fluke, etc. can be had cheap and are of pretty high quality and can even be repaired if necessary.

 

Well, updates, I went out and got a higher quality multimeter. What is throwing me off is the numbers for the test are at a 1k ohm and 100 ohm multimeter and this one only does 2k and 200. Does anyone know if that will change the values? 

I put a new set of plugs in it and attempted to put on the boots. And they wouldn’t plug in. I noticed the top of the plug from the old one got stuck in the boot. On all 4 plugs. I tried to wrestle it out of the boot and snapped the plastic on the boots so I guess I’ll order a new set of those. 

Could you screw a plug into the stuck part and pull it out?

Unfortunately not, the threads are definitely there but they just click in place and click out so it’s not possible. Does anyone have a replacement part number or are they standard boots? 

The range marked on the meter is just the maximum it can read on that scale.  It can always read lower.  So if you are reading something like the pickups which usually measure between 300 and 600 ohms, a 1K scale or 2K scale would both work.  If you were to try to measure something that measured 1500 ohms (1.5K ohms), the 2K scale would work, but the 1K scale would not.  

Generally speaking, you want to use the smallest scale that is still large enough to measure the expected value.  If it does not measure on that scale, then you keep going larger scales until you get a reading (of course this means your device being measured is out of tolerance, but it's nice to know how far out it is).

Roger, give me a few minutes and I’ll post up my ohm measurements for the igniter.

Coil plug:

(+) black/yellow
(-) green(20k) @ -10.86 ohms

(+) black/yellow                   
(-) black(20k) @ -10.40 ohms

(+) black/yellow                   
(-) red(20k) @ -10.84 ohms

(-) black/yellow                 
(+) red(200k) @ 130.0 ohms 

 Pickup plug:

(+) yellow                    
(-) red(2k) @ .459 ohms

(+) blue                    
(-) black(2k) @.452 ohms  

Battery:12.5V 

wrote:

Coil plug:

(+) black/yellow
(-) green(20k) @ -10.86 ohms

(+) black/yellow                   
(-) black(20k) @ -10.40 ohms

(+) black/yellow                   
(-) red(20k) @ -10.84 ohms

(-) black/yellow                 
(+) red(200k) @ 130.0 ohms 

 Pickup plug:

(+) yellow                    
(-) red(2k) @ .459 ohms

(+) blue                    
(-) black(2k) @.452 ohms  

Battery:12.5V 

Just FYI, when on a "K" scale, the numbers are usually understood to have a "K" applied to the reading.  For example, the first reading of 10.86 would actually be 10.86K ohms, or 10,860 ohms.

The pickup readings are then .459K ohms and .452K ohms, which could also be said as 459 ohms and 452 ohms.

I'm not sure what the FSM would spec for the igniter, but nothing looks suspicious to me.  Definitely nothing shorted out, so that's good.  However, I'm ignoring the negative signs you have in the readings.  If the meter does in fact show a negative sign, then there is some power applied somewhere.  Resistance checks should be done with all power removed.

my bad on the ignitor table post.
I cropped out the part that mentioned the ignitor is completely unplugged when taking these readings

I had to find the instructions for a 1980 kz550 as i could not find a factory service manual 81 KZ750H.
It's the same ignitor part number

 

My apologies, I wasn’t aware that resistance checks should be done with no power applied. Should I redo them without the ignition on? If not, then the next thing we would have to check would be the coils. Wouldn’t it be weird that Both coils went out at once? I am also missing a grounding bolt on the front of the clutch handle side coil. That couldn’t affect both of them right? 

You can just unplug the ignitor completely.
yep, redo the readings.
No need to apologize. It was my fault.
The coil doesn't need to be grounded.
It does need to be bolted as the coils don't really like vibration.