My KZ100 ran just fine the last time I rode her. She was parked outside for about 10 days and then no spark to any of the plugs. The kill switch is working so I thought for sure it must be the igniter so installed a new one and still no spark. Next step, check the resistance through the pick-up coils. Clymer manual says it should be 360-540 ohms. Mine reads nothing on the hundreds setting and .445 ohms on the diode setting for both pick-ups. It's been really hot here in Utah. Could both pick-up coils fail from sitting in the sun on consecutive 100 degree days? I can't think of any other reason they could both fail while parked. I don't think I'm reading my meter wrong (pic attached)?
The fuses check out. 12.5V at the battery. 12.5 volts at the one fuse that stays hot with ignition off. 10.4V at all fuses when the ignition is on. Not sure if that's abnormal.
I'm not sure about my meter. I tested it on a 40W light bulb and get 27.4 ohms on the hundreds setting and get .027 on both the thousands and diode setting.
10.4 Volts at all fuses seems low.
You may have a voltage drop somewhere.
meter on DC V
key on/ignition on
red probe on positive battery post
black probe on each fuse terminal
voltage should be close to 0 volts.
If voltage is more than 0.5 volts, then you have an issue between the positive battery post and the fuses.
It could be a loose positive battery clamp.
move red probe to negative battery post
black probe to engine case
voltage should be 0 volts
anything more than 0.5 volts indicated a bad ground connection
Again, could be a loose negative battery clamp to a corroded or loose ground connection to your frame and/or engine.
I get .03 volts at the fuses with lights off but 1.5 volts with the lights on. Is that indicating a short somewhere in the lighting harness? With lights off, I also get full battery voltage at the fuses.
The ground appears fairly good at .006 volts differential. I checked the spark again with the lights off thinking that removing those circuits might remove the problem from the rest of the harness but still no spark. I also measured only .2 volts to the igniter when the starter switch is engaged.
I pulled each one and grounded it to the block.
Just a huge amount of resistance along the 1.5V line.
The resistance will be between the two probes.
It could be corroded connections, loose connections, dirty terminals.
You can move the probes closer together along that wire till the 1.5V drops below 0.5v.
When the voltage drops you will have found where your problem will be.
Just for kicks..turn your headlight on.
meter on DC V.
red probe on positive battery post
black probe on positive battery terminal(the metal part of the positive battery cable)
voltage should be much less than 0.5V
If it's higher, then you need to clean or tighten the positive battery connection.
This tests your positive side battery connection.
Your ignition problem could very well be something else, but you do have a big issue along that section of 1.5V power wire.
The reason you didn't see it initially was because current wasn't flowing on that wire because your lights were off.
Your ground wire connection is excellent.
Fire up your starter for a couple of seconds. Pull a spark plug. Is it wet with fuel?
What Hugo said made me want to check for fuel getting to the cylinder.
When you measured voltage at the ignitor. Which color wire did you measure?
Where was the other probe?
The battery connections are very clean, no corrosion at all and there is 0.00 differential voltage between the post and the cable. The plugs don't appear really wet but smell strongly of fuel. I pulled the hose from the back of the filter and the carbs are definitely getting gas.