TOPIC:

This site is great, found all the answers I needed to get the bike running again! 

After getting caught in the rain, bike would not fire. One of the  coils was shot (impedance tested), so decided to do points and condensor also. After a LOT of attempts, finally got gaps set, coils wired correctly. Did lots of searches here, lots of great advice. Final issue was the correct wiring of the condensor and coil wires on the points, 650ed your picture was a lifesaver. Used the static timing notes from 650ed also, thanks! 


Question: The bike is running, better than before, smoother etc. two things that are not making sense. 

#1 - New points from K1, checked part numbers etc they are correct. Right hand side would not get gap down to the .16 inch. Adjusted plates etc would not get there. Left hand side was fine. After a week of trying and double checking my info, a little bit of geometry told me if i filed down the bumper on the points i could get the gap right. Did that, gap was close enough. I did notice the bumper had a line on it, turned out filing it down to that line was what i needed. Wondering if it was a manufacturing error? 

#2 - When checking the F mark for gap opening, the back plate could not be moved far enough to get the F to line up with the opening  of the contacts. 

So I'm thinking these 2 things are related? Is my advancer possibly the culprit? But the bike is running and starts up faster then before and idles nicely. 

Any ideas? 

Thanks

Tom

1. Those could be a set of points designed to work on a wide variety of engines, some of which need a longer rubbing block than others. If it is working properly now, I would forget it and be happy.

2. How far off is the mark? Have you checked the advance with a timing light? These things were not always as precisely made as we wish they were.

The real proof is in how it works. If it starts easily, throttle response is crisp, and there is no detonation under load or noticeable softening of power near redline, it is probably where it needs to be.