79 KZ650 B3 (Confirmed through Kawasaki!). New to me. hasn't started/run in who knows how long. I just want to get it running so I can give it an informed evaluation. I'll see where I want to go from there.
It cranks with the key and a new battery but does not fire. I checked for spark and there is none (on #3 & #4). Spark plugs have continuity & are properly insulated, as do/are my primary wires through the points to the condensers. My red/yellow primary wires to the engine stop switch are sketchy (missing insulation), but I haven't gone into the switch yet to check the continuity. I'm trying hard not to break things.
So, I check the coils. Both look like they have had cracks repaired with... something. There are other, larger cracks on the casing. Not long for this world in any case. On my 2&3 coil I get 4 Ohms on the primary and sometimes 23K Ohms on the secondary. Oftentimes, that secondary number is all over the place. If I stay very still, I can keep it at 23K. The Clymer says I should have 4 & 23K. So, okay, I guess. The 1&4 coil gives me 4.2 and sometimes 25K. Not, okay, I guess.
ALL my connections could use a cleaning (De-Oxit DN5 on order and a day of fun in the making. ... I found that post.), and there are connections within my wiring that indicate there has been some overheating. So, rewiring is definitely in my future.
So, what's the next logical step at this point? What would you do, those who have done it before?
Man up and get into that engine stop switch? Anyone done such a thing – or a way to test without taking it apart? The Start button works – that’s something, no?
Clean all connections before anything else? I lean against it because it cranks. If it didn't do anything at all I'd be into checking all connections.
Get a $40 pair of coils from EBay? The ones on there now don't inspire a ton of confidence, and I've certainly spent more money on worse things, but of the 6 I looked at (admittedly, a small sample out of the 207 that came up), the secondary resistance was listed at 14.5K ohms instead of 23K. Do I run the risk of doing more damage to an already sensitive system? Because of the difference, do I run the risk of not getting accurate feedback, keeping the real trouble hidden? Does anyone know of a cheapo set like this that meets the Clymer specs? I don’t want to get into the really good aftermarket stuff because I have a long way to go before I do anything beyond stock.
Your input is appreciated...