TOPIC:

If you use an exact replacement pickup assembly (same year/model etc), and mount it exactly in the same position, it should be close enough to run. The stock ignition needs to be timed with a gun to be exact, though.

You can also static-time it roughly without a timing gun. The center of the point of the rotor will just barely be past the center of the pickup coil (by about 1/16 inch) when the spark occurs.

You line up the F mark (per manual) then rotate the pickup-late CCW until the center of the pickup just passes the point of the rotor. If your pickup plate is not slotted, then it's not really adjustable. In this case, some people file the screw holes into slots.

You can also check 2,3 timing if you really want to, but it takes a little more effort, but not a lot.

If you already have the Dyna 3-ohm coils, then I would suggest just getting the Dyna-S ignition (The Dyna-S ignition requires 3-ohm or higher coils). It will be about the same amount of effort, and doesn't really need a timing gun if you have a voltage tester.

As WG said, who knows what you're going to get on Ebay?

Okay so no way around it really - I might as well upgrade.........If I am gonna go through the trouble - Or is it trouble - haha - Gonna order the rest of the kit tomorrow - Thanks to all - I will be back::::::::No doubt about that

loudhvx - You can only time 1/4 using an OEM advance from a bike that came with the Kaw IC Igniter ignition system. There are NO marks for 2/3. The mechanical advance needs to be swapped out for an earlier one (points type ignition). If you did want to time 2/3, you could find TDC for #3 cylinder and use a light I guess but I don't think you can actually move the pickup. It is in a fixed mounting place so it will probably be close but not adjustable unless you did some modifying in the even it was not timed quite right after replacement.

wiredgeorge wrote:

loudhvx - You can only time 1/4 using an OEM advance from a bike that came with the Kaw IC Igniter ignition system. There are NO marks for 2/3. The mechanical advance needs to be swapped out for an earlier one (points type ignition). If you did want to time 2/3, you could find TDC for #3 cylinder and use a light I guess but I don't think you can actually move the pickup. It is in a fixed mounting place so it will probably be close but not adjustable unless you did some modifying in the even it was not timed quite right after replacement.

Checking 2,3 timing is not difficult. Just takes some common sense and maybe a ruler. I've posted it before.

Altering 2,3 timing is a little more involved but certainly not impossible. If you look at the photo I posted I'm sure you could figure it out.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2005/12/27 14:34

I talked with the people I ordered the ?Pick up? coil from and they said with this swap out I would not need an ignitor at all - I would remove the stock kaw ignitor - The part that I ordered is an all in one - They did say a timing would have to happen - I have timed cars before so I am hoping this wont be to much more different - probably be easier - Just because of easy access

Post edited by: modest911, at: 2005/12/27 20:41

So I got my part in today - and was going to put it in when I noticed "liquid" on the ground when I was removing the old coil - I started looking around and noticied that this liquid was coming out of the coil wires - I blew it out metered again - Reinstalled and received spark on all four plugs - idiot haha - Anyway I am going over to the carb section now -

Okay I figured out what that "liquid" was coming out of the stock pick coils - Its oil - When I was rerouting the pick coil wires to the orginal location the outer sleeve cracked so I just removed the old sleeve and all four of the wires where covered with a thin coat of oil -

So my question is - COuld I use that shrink tubing and than coat the shrink tubing with liquid electrical tape? Do you think this will hold up to the heat - I know the liquid electrical tape is rated up to 255 F


Thanks

modest911 wrote:

Okay I figured out what that "liquid" was coming out of the stock pick coils - Its oil - When I was rerouting the pick coil wires to the orginal location the outer sleeve cracked so I just removed the old sleeve and all four of the wires where covered with a thin coat of oil -

So my question is - COuld I use that shrink tubing and than coat the shrink tubing with liquid electrical tape? Do you think this will hold up to the heat - I know the liquid electrical tape is rated up to 255 F


Thanks

I'm not sure I follow. Where did the oil come from? There should be no oil inside the ignition cover. If there is, then a seal is bad on the end of the crank.

You can use shrink wrap on the wires. The wires don't have to be "sealed". There should be a small gap at the bottom of the ignition-cover-gasket to let out any liquid build-up.

loudhvx wrote:

I'm not sure I follow. Where did the oil come from? There should be no oil inside the ignition cover. If there is, then a seal is bad on the end of the crank.

You can use shrink wrap on the wires. The wires don't have to be "sealed". There should be a small gap at the bottom of the ignition-cover-gasket to let out any liquid build-up.

To add to this, if you're using Permatex to create a gasket when you put it back together, put a toothpick in the notch on the case and leave it there while you press the cover into place. Once the gasket sealer sets up, you can pull the toothpick out to be sure that the hole isn't filled in accidentally.

Well this is an interesting case, if nothing else. Who would have guess oil fouled pickup coils? bwhahahaha OK... there is NOT supposed to be oil on your pickup coil wires or pickup coils themselves. It came from the crankcase. If you remove the pickup coils and mechanical timing advance mechanism by unscrewing he smaller bolt head and get it out of the way, behind is an OIL SEAL which goes around the crankshaft end. Yours is BAD... that is where the oil is coming from. Not sure if you can buy JUST that oil seal. I buy them in kits and replace all of them when rebuilding an engine. My buddy Jeff at www.z1enterprises.com sells the kit which can't cost more than $30 or so and all engine oil seals are in the kit. You will have to remove the inner points cover which is the piece bolted to the engine cases by about 6 screws. Once you get it off, clean off the gasket mating surfaces and let Jeff sell you a new inner points cover gasket. Replace the oil seal by just pressing out the old one and tapping the new one into place. I use a socket where the edge of the socket fits onto the outer edge of the seal and knock it into place. I have BIG sockets and hopefully you do to else you can use a piece of correctly sized PVC or something along those lines. Just put the new gasket in place and gently fit the seal over the crankshaft end and push the cover into place and bolt it up. You should not get more oil in there.

Once you get ready to replace your pickup coils, wipe down the wires with some mild solvent and then use some good quality electrical tape and wrap the wires up to the point where they terminate in the plug at the end that plugs into the ignitor. If you shrink wrap, you will have to remove the OEM connector and I would avoid that. The electrical tape is sufficient to protect these wires as they are already insulated.

Note that under the inner points cover is one if not two bendable wire holders where you can fasten this wire bundle once wrapped. Once you have everything in place, since the 1/4 timing doesn't have slots, your original timing should be maintained and you shouldn't need to retime your igntion. FIX THAT OIL SEAL!

Thanks all - I will do as advised - This sure has been a big learning experience thats for sure-