TOPIC:

Retest the connector in the teal box.
Do not disconnect the connector.(you will have to back probe the connector)
All of the fuses in.
ignition on/engine off
meter DC V
Red meter probe- positive battery post
Black meter probe-both sides of connector( there will be 3 readings as the connector has 2 connectors out,1 connector in)

magilla wrote: Yes, I mean the fuses do not have any amp ratings on them.

I don't know where your fuses came from, but I just looked thru a bunch of NOS automotive fuses that I have and they all have amp ratings on them, not one has voltage rating. I suppose installing a 32 volt fuse is okay if the amperage is the same or slightly above, but to my way of thinking that's playing with fire. If a fuse says 32V on it I still don't have any idea what the amps are. What if the amperage on that 32V fuse is two or three times greater than the circuit should carry?
Rick H.

You guys are blowing this issue out of proportion. The bike ran "great" before the carbs were removed. He obviously disturbed some bad electrical connection R/I the carbs.

Check & clean all the connections and grounds. Look for discoloration in the plastic connectors from heat. These bikes are so simple, no reason to over complicate things.

F64 wrote: Getting a 32 volt fuse is fine. You either want a higher voltage or equal voltage never a lower voltage.

I must say I totally disagree.
Regardless of the electrical theory, would it not make sense to install the fuses that the manufacturer of the machine specified rather than using different fuses? Do you believe that the engineer that designed the bike's electrical system knew what he was doing when he specified a particular fuse, or do you believe that he had no idea of what he was doing when he designed the bike's electrical system? I know you probably have a different opinion than mine, so be it, but regardless of the ability of a 32v fuse to serve as a substitute for a 12v fuse I am firmly of the opinion that one should follow the advice of the engineer who designed the machine rather than installing components that do not match the engineer's specifications. Ed

Cooperbussman


Littelfuse

Magilla,
You may very well have a short or shorts in your lighting circuit. That could be because the deluge you experienced or may be some hidden issue that decided to become apparent.Do a quick inspection of the harness down the back bone to see if water got in there. Also, inside the headlight housing.

We can fire up without the lighting circuits.
Just leave in the main fuse for now.
We need to get this bike running.

meter DC V
bike ignition on/engine off
do not disconnect coil leads while testing otherwise the readings won't mean anything.
both points closed

Black meter probe battery negative post
Red meter probe battery positive post
Note voltage

Black meter probe on battery negative post
Red meter probe on coil1 positive terminal-Note voltage
Red meter probe on coil2 positive terminal-Note voltage

Red meter probe on coil1 negative terminal-Note voltage
Red meter probe on coil2 negative terminal-Note voltage

These readings will tell us if the coils are connected and possibly charging.
The positive side will be a touch lower than battery voltage.
The negative side should be very close to zero

Rotate engine to open one set of points completely.
On the coil with the points open measure the following:

black meter probe on negative battery post
red meter probe on coil's positive terminal-note voltage
red meter probe on coil's negative terminal-note voltage
If points are truly open, the 2 readings will match and be close to battery voltage.

Rotate the engine till the other points are open.
Repeat the measurements for this open points coil.

This is to verify the points will actually fire.

Turn off bike as coils will overheat if left on.

OK got the bike running and it runs 100% better than before the carb cleaning! Here is what I found: Like F64 suggested, I left the light circuit fuses out and put in only the main 20 amp fuse. Still no spark. I took the points cover off to see if the points were sparking, and they were not opening hardly at all and not sparking. I regapped them to 0.014" (screws were extremely tight, so doubtful they moved), sprayed a little ether in the carbs and the bike fired briefly. Reinstalled the tank and turned on fuel, wouldn't start. Then remembered there was very little gas in the tank so put it on RES and it fired right up, smoked a little as the oil burned off the header, and settled in at about 2,000 rpm. Adjusted idle down to 1,000 rpm, runs great now without even syncing the carbs yet. I am wondering if the point brackets (not sure what they are called) wore down to were the points weren't opening enough? There is no grease on the cam that lifts the points. I don't have any "points grease", I will get some this morning when I go to get the correct fuses. BTW, I did find one fuse was marked 20A and all three fuses looked the same, so it looks like the lighting circuit fuses were replaced with 20 amp fuses to keep them from blowing. So I still need to track down the issue with the lighting circuits. THANKS to everyone for their input on my problem!

Sweeeeeet!!!

Hurraaayyyyy!!! One big hurdle surmounted. Hopefully the lighting circuit will be more cooperative in revealing its dirty little secret.

You're lucky you caught that burning fuses issue. That bike would have eventually melted.
You may be able to ask the previous owner if they have any idea what went wrong

Buy a bunch of those 10 amp fuses. You're going to blow a bunch of them trying to find this fault, but at least the wires shouldn't melt.
And fuses are much cheaper than shop rates.
We may have to go back to what Kidkawie suggested and I chided him for..pulling connectors apart.........apologies Kidkawie.
But it's for a different reason, It's not to clean dirty connectors, but to isolate the fault and figure out what section the fault is in.
Do one circuit at a time. For instance, main fuse and tailight fuse installed. Leave out the headlight fuse. See if the fuses heat up. Then try the headlight and the main fuse. Check for heat.
If you have a thermal camera laying around that would be perfect or just feel around the wiring when the circuit is on you may be able to feel the heat in the wire and where it stops(that may be where your fault lies). A guy who repairs computers on youtube (Louis Rossmann) would use his tongue to find faulty hot computer chips on boards--he has a Flir camera now.
Use all of your senses. Look for sharp bends in wire, pinch points, melted connectors(kidkawie), corrosion.
Anyway, I think that is enough for now.
Good job Magilla! )

Good progress... I bet it was nice to here it run...

Do yourself a favor and install a Dyna pickup.