TOPIC:

My instalation was on a J model motor with the hi-vo type camchain/slider ,on the kz style the instalation may be different but I wouldnt think so,if it rattles when you start the bike you know its to loose,here is a link to a how to I found on Jays site.
www.morrowmarsh.ca/concours/techpages/ca...tensioner-manual.htm

I've heard rumors that a cross-wedge tensioner can be converted to a manual tensioner. I've thunk and thunk on it, and can't see how.

Anybody have any input?

I have a homemade one on my 1000. It looks just like the APE version. Works fine. I can get as pic if you want.

craigpuckett wrote:

back before Jay brought out his tensioner,the trick used to be to drill a 6mm hole in the back of a 900 tensioner and use a bolt and a lock nut as a positive stop.

Jays is a better option IMHO.

I did that to mine. It's basically an extra lock to help keep the tensioner from slipping but you can also use it to put a little more tension on the chain if you think your spring is weak. Here is some pics:

users.adelphia.net/~lbilling/images/motorcycle/DSCF0340.JPG

users.adelphia.net/~lbilling/images/motorcycle/DSCF0343.JPG

Len

I would take the valve cover off any bike to set the tension with a manual tensioner. Its just not something to mess with guessing. If you get it too tight, the idler wheel will wear.

Nads has an excellent point. We've used APE manual tensioners on the dragbikes for years and years, an excellent product.

However,if you put too much tension on the chain you'll find the black rubber roller in a fine suspension in your engine oil.And nothing left of the roller but the steel insert in the middle -don't ask me how I know this...