TOPIC:

I am a bit tempted to try to squeeze in RTV silicon between the 2 fiber gaskets, creating the functionality of a one piece gasket. anyone had success with that?

There are some around here that advocate using RTV in place of the cam chain tunnel O-ring.  I can't say what the pros vs cons of this approach is, though.  Hopefully some people that are more knowledgeable than me on KZ engines will chime in here.  I can say that I'm NOT a fan of aftermarket gaskets and seals.  At their very best, they will match OEM, but many are just plain junk.  

I too like to use as many O.E.M. factory gaskets as I can. I always use the factory cam chain o-ring. But I put some Three Bond TB-1211 silicone type sealant in the groove before I place the o-ring into the groove. Then I apply a thin coat of TB-1211 to the top of the o-ring before I drop the cylinder head into place. Then I let the motor sit at least 24 hours before I fire it up. That way the TB-1211 has time to set up.

I have been doing my Kz motors like this since back in the mid '70's and I can't remember ever having one that starting leaking from the center o-ring!!!

 

Dr. Gamma wrote:

Do yourself a huge favor and get a hold of a genuine factory Kawasaki shop manual. I like how you say your Clymer manual makes no mention of using the three 8mm threaded holes used to help to split the case haves. Clymer manuals have a bad habit of leaving out certain information like that throughout the whole shop manual. The factory manuals are always a more complete manual than your Clymer manual.

!!!!Important Note!!!!!! When you use those three 8mm bolts to split the cases. If you leave just ONE case bolt in place and you keep cranking down on those three 8mm bolts. And your cases are still not coming apart and you crank down on those bolts a little bit more. The next sound you will hear is a snapping sound as a put a nice crack in your lower case!!!! I have watched a few dealership "mechanics" make that mistake!!!  Its a very distinctive sound you don't want to ever hear!!! Just triple check to make sure ALL the case bolts have been removed!!!!  
 

Hello, what does the original Kawasaki manual look like, where can you get it? thank you

Here is a pdf copy of the fsm.

www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/K...Service%20Manual.pdf

Hard copies occasionally come up on eBay.

Thanks for the input,

But the verdict is basically to order new gaskets, OEM style, and remove the head carefully with fingers crossed that the gasket isnt stuck like on old engines?

Jonas_Z1000j wrote:

Thanks for the input,

But the verdict is basically to order new gaskets, OEM style, and remove the head carefully with fingers crossed that the gasket isnt stuck like on old engines?

The head shouldn't be "stuck" after such a short running time - I guess whether or not the base gasket re-seals is a "crap shoot" once the pressure has been removed. IMHO I think you will be ok but others with more experience of these motors may say different

Before I tear it down I will try this:

 

I filled the gap with Permatex blue and will inspect it tomorrow. If it looks good, I continue till it meets the fiber gasket. I will use a syringe to get it in place. The silicone reached the O-ring, so Im quite hopefull this can work.
 

I realized that a quick and dirty solution to this problem will not work, because the head gasket is open at the inner studs.

I removed the head today and everything looks nice, a lot of oil around the camshafts and no other visible leak paths.

The O-ring was damaged, either I have squeezed it on the edge of the groove (most likely) or the quality was terrible:

 

Nothing was stuck:



I ordered a new head gasket and a Viton high quality camchain O-ring. Will install it with RTV this time (thanks Dr. Gamma) and inspect it before I lower the head the last 10 mm.

Finally took a longer drive today after reinstalling the head with a new gasket and viton o-ring. Did as Gamma adviced and used RTV to keep it in place. It is sealing now, what a relief!

 

I had to adjust the pilot screw after the first test run, from 2,75 out to 3 out (I also did 2,5 as I first tought it was an air screw, but the idle got really upset ). At 3 it is pretty good, but I need to do some more adjustments when I do the vacuum syncing. Also ordered new clamps and plugs for the carb to insure its not leaking.

It was quite nice riding, pulls strong and pretty quiet from the camchain and valves department. It did have some issues. At 5-6k rpm it stutters before it continues to rev. I think this is because in an attempt last year (before tear down) to rule out pinging, I raised the main needles. I will revert that. One of the cam caps is also leaking pretty badly and one a little. I read someone here advicing that you can pull them down with a fastener after you apply RTV to get them to seal. Will try that!

I also bought new shocks, I went for YSS ZRX 1100/1200 shocks as they are bolt on but 360 mm instead of the standard around 350 mm. The old Girling copies where 335 mm and I could not use the center stand without risking of dropping it. The travel lenght increased alot and I like the look with more air between the tire and rear frame:

 

Great bike and good job on the Z1000J, have looked at all the pictures and will read through the whole thread soon

Hello again. My computer crashed in august and I somehow stopped updating this thread. 
I have since then:

• Got the bike completely leakage free! The trick was installing the cam ends with RTV and torque them down level to the gasket surface, then after a day installing the cover.
• I lowered the main needles one step and now it pulls good to 8k. 
• I changed oil after 100 km and accidently overfilled it a bit, got worried and had to buy a pump as the Marving header blocks filter and drain plug. 
• I increased the idle screw to 3,25. Idle still increase a bit when fully warm, but almost all hesitation when revving down is gone now. I dont know what is normal and what is not here? Maybe 1015 cc and the Marving exhaust needs bigger pilot jets?
• I did a vacuum sync. the tricky part here was to fasten the set screws without special tools. Very easy to affect the settings. Idle got slightly better when cold, its good!
• I installed a reproduction seat cover (from the Thailand company on ebay). Difficult to get it tight, I had to work in steps and remove staples a couple of turns. 

I am now waiting for a decal set from the UK. After that the local paint shop will put on new solid black with clear coat over the decals! (I was going for blue for a while, but black and gold is just to good looking to change)

 

Before the new seat cover but with some additional polishing:



Its fun to drive! feels like a rocket with its narrow cafe style handlebar