The OEM separate regulator & rectifier are disliked by some. We use the OEM regulators and rectifiers on all of our Z1's without problems and because we have spares on the shelf. Having said that, the superiority of modern reg/rec combined units is very clear. The separate OEM regulators used on Z1 and KZ900's are battery maintainers at best. If tasked with recharging a dead battery while riding, an old-style separate OEM regulator can fail fgrom overheating. If you use the OEM charging system, keep the battery fully charged. A good thread on modifying a Z1/KZ900 charging system is here:
www.kzrider.com/forum/forum-index/4-elec...stator-and-regulator
The 20A glass tube fuses are prone to overheating at the end caps. A good mod is to replace them with modern blade fuses.
Clean all pin connectors & apply something like NO-OX-ID/A. Corrosion on connectors can cause a variety of mysterious issues. No-OX-ID/A is available from many sources.includig Amazon and fleaBay:
www.sanchem.com/electrical-contact-lubricant.html www.sanchem.com/electrical-contact-lubricant.html
Most early Z-bikes run power to the coil primaries through a convoluted circuit that includes the ignition switch and kill switch. The ignition switch, especially, tends to develop resistance across the internal contacts causing voltage drop at the coil primary. Reduced primary voltage results in weak spark. An easy mod that will eliminate the ignition and kill switches from the coil circuit is to install a simple relay to apply full battery voltage to the coil primaries. This can be accomplished with some 18ga. wire to build a PnP harness, a few bullet terminals, a crimper for the terminals, and an inexpensive automotive relay commonly available from auto parts stores. No butchering of the stock wiring harness necessary; it's all plug-n-play. The circuit mod schematic is shown below:
wgcarbs.com/index.php/14-sample-data-articles/89-coils
Lube the rear brake pedal pivot.
The grommet in the dyno cover where the three wires exit is prone to weep oil. Not a leak really, just an aggravating weep. Take pains to clean/degrease the area squeaky clean & don't be shy with the sealant. We use high temp silicone. Others have their preferences.
Old OEM rear brake shoes for the drum brakes on Z1's/KZ900's had the linings attached to the shoe backing with adhesive. After 40+ years, the adhesive is known to be failing. If the lining detaches from the shoe while Ridin', it will likely cause the rear wheel to lock. If that happens in traffic things can get ugly quick. Replace old OEM shoes with new (not NOS) shoes.
Not platform specific:
Invest is good JIS screwdrivers and impact driver bits. The cross-head fasteners on Z-bikes look like Philips head but they're not; the geometry is different. Phillips screwdrivers will damage the recesses of Japanese JIS fasteners. Vessel is a very good, trusted brand of JIS screwdrivers. You'll thank your past self in the future for investing in JIS drivers now.
Good ft./lb. and in./lb. torque wrenches will be your friend, as will a factory service manual.
Welcome to our little corner of motorcycle madness Be forewarned; Z-bikes are an affliction, wherein the first one develops the symbiotic relationship. It needs you and, you'll find you need it.. The only known treatment is the application of additional Z-bikes.
Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE