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Thats how you want to buy them, not butchered up.  But, am I the only one that thinks he overpaid?  

Kidkawie post=856018Thats how you want to buy them, not butchered up.  But, am I the only one that thinks he overpaid?  

At Mid-Ohio this year, Kaz bought a very nicely restored '76 KZ900 from the swap meet vendor next to us for something $9,850 USD.  That tells us that they're likely bringing $13,000 ~ $15,000 in Japan.

If the intent is to restore & flip, one might be able to recoup hardware & supplies cost & break even.  Maybe.  If the intent is to do a cleanup/resurrection just to have a safe & reliable daily rider that retains patina & originality,. then the purchase price doesn't seem unreasonable, especially considering that KZ900's likely have nowhere to go but up in perceived value.

But that's just our $.02.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

He thinks he overpaid a little...I kept getting out bid on eBay and just was not finding anything decent. In 2009 I paid $400 for my Z1R project, so I figure I am dollar cost averaging here If I say I got the Z1R and the KZ900 for $6600 together, it does not sound as bad

But I agree as well that these are not going down in value, when I started with the Z1R it was a $5000 bike tops, and look where they are now. 

Ran into an issue with the bike, have been slowly working it. When I first got it, the kickstarter would turn it over. I only tried a little. I got a key made for it and a battery and started working on it a bit. 

I had it in gear by mistake and pushed it a bit, and now the motor has locked. Kick starter won't move it at all.

I out some marvel mystery oil in the cylinders and letting it soak, and will try to see if I can get it free again. Weird to me that it was OK and now is not.

What is the best point to try and spin it? I think I recal not to use the bolt on the points side because it can shear? Put it in gear and use the sprocket nut?

My plan was to get it turning over and change the oil, then check compression, but looks like I may have to tear it down. 

Put the bike on the center stand, remove the sparkplugs, put the transmission in gear (first is the only choice when the bike is not moving), turn the rear wheel in the direction of forward travel.

wrote:

Put the bike on the center stand, remove the sparkplugs, put the transmission in gear (first is the only choice when the bike is not moving, turn the rear wheel in the direction of forward travel.

I like this!

Ive had my KZ 900 for 46 years and have over the years rubbed it like a Jeanie bottle and only made suttle bolt on changes to make it personal until I got a computer and found this site, about 14 years ago and went full tilt mail order princes and did upgrades. Then I bought a low milage 78 1000 for $500.00 and dressed it up nice paint and buffed and electrical upgrades and sold it to my son for what I had into it to wreck it so now its back in the corner collecting dust. I should have tripled the price. Now I just make go carts out of wheelbarrows. I cant bear the disgust.

Excellent motorcycle to restore I have also done a semi restoration on 2 76 Kz900.
Alao have a third one owner with 7600 miles waiting it’s turn. To me it the beat 900 of them
all. 

I like the carbs on the 76 better than earlier bikes but my favourite is the Z1B followed by the Z1.  The reflectors on the forks and shocks make them distinctive.

Thanks all - beautiful bikes! 

I prob should have mentioned, I have it on the center stand, plugs out, and have tried moving the wheel with no luck. Have had mystery oil sitting in each cylinder about a week. 

Was wondering if I could try a little more leverage on it before tearing into the engine. 

 

Can you shift the transmission at all or is it stuck in gear?  If stuck in gear do you know what gear it's in?  Your question about using more leverage is problematic in certain respects as one has to decide what is too much, or not enough leverage.  You certainly don't want to damage anything or damage it more by using too much force.  Have you tried to spin/turn the rear wheel backwards at all in the present configuration just to see if it will turn even a little bit?  One of two areas come to mind from your description one being the engine and the other being the transmission.  If the rear wheel suggestion doesn't work going forward or backwards then I don't think you have much choice but to start a methodical teardown looking for the issue.  Lots of things to consider in your situation.  Just my 2 cents worth again, others may have some ideas.

Rick H.

Try to remove the clutch parts (friction and steel plates).
You can turn now the inner clutch hub/drive shaft with the gears and the crank/clutch basket separately, because
they are mechanically decoupled. Now you can turn the rear wheel and shift into neutral and or the upper gears.