TOPIC:

Skidmark post=853309I used the PJ1 Fast Black chassis and engine paint.  So far I am impressed with the durability.

 

Agreed.

PJ1 Fast Black is the closest match we've found to OEM motor paint.  One of our '73 (late '72 manufacture) Z1's has unrestored original black motor paint.  It's overall in good condition but, has flaked over the years in random places.  PJ1 Fast Black is the closest match of any of a half-dozen or so touchup paints we've found.  The areas that were touched up with PJ1 can be discerned in good daylight of one looks closely & knows where to look.  From 5ft. at a glance the PJ11 Fast Black is basically invisible.

We've vapor blasted many painted items (mostly smaller, ferrous chassis items) in our cabinet with glass 170-325 mesh glass bead @ 75 - 120 lbs. pressure,  Unless the blast stream is left stationary for a period of many seconds, well adhered paint is unaffected.

We had the cases, jugs, head and valve cover of The Seven Year _itch ('72 Z1) soda blasted.  Paint removal was perfect with no change in surface finish of the aluminum.  The difficulty we had was neutralizing the soda prior to painting.  Doable but a PITA.

The motor on The Wounded Z ('73 Z1) was done with dry glass bead.  Don't know the bead size or pressure.  The resulting dull finish slightly affected the paint finish, but it was acceptable for a simple resurrection.

Next black motor we do will be blasted with crushed walnut shell.

Hardrockminer wrote in a comment above "The best guy here to advise you on correct paint is "slmjim & Z1Bebe"  He's forgotten more than I know about Z1s." makes it sound as if we're some sort of experts  ( ex - a has-been.  spurt - a drip under pressure... expert  )  Although slmjim may have some experience borne of going on five decades (three decades for The Lovely Z1BEBE) of being inflicted with The Dreaded Z-bug, we cannot in good conscience claim to be at the level implied by hardrockminer  (think Achim, Rob and many others), although thanks for the kudos!  We're routinely humbled & gratefully schooled by other Z1 enthusiasts the world over who have gleaned a deeper understanding of the arcane details our beloved Z-bikes.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Help me out here.
Is it consensus that the frame isn't actually a high gloss black? More of a satin or semi gloss? That would be great if true.
Also, we don't have a PJ1 dealer here and shipping to Hawaii is a bear, shipping for one $20 can is over $40. Is the Fast Black also sort of a semi gloss? If so there are other engine paints I can get here like that.

Your frame currently is to high gloss, that how HRM noticed it had been repainted. Not sure of match to the early Z1 but VHT Chassis and Roll bar paint matches perfectly to my Kz900 and ‘78 LTD 1000. Looks like you need a transmission cover, it appears to be broken. Kawasaki 14025-1106 

I know $40 shipping seam a lot but in the overall scheme of value I think correct (or as close as you ca be) out weights the cost. Keep in mind this could be a $25,000.00 bike when your done. 

Yes, trans cover is on the way.
I think I can find VHT here, I’ll start looking. 
what about the headlight can, gloss black or is supposed to be slightly less than gloss?
Removed the forks, fork oil smelled like sewage. Ugh. The front axle clamps were swapped so the gap was in front.
Took the steering and triple trees off today. I was pleased to see tapered roller bearings until I looked closely. The cages were dented in when they were installed. Ok, I’ll just replace them, no biggie. That is until I looked at the inner races in the neck. There was no lip at all to grab to knock them out and I could not use heat because that would ruin the label on the neck. Out came the carbide burrs and the high speed grinder, I cut them out, what a chore, didn’t want to gouge up the inner part of the land, had to go very slowly. This seems to be a design flaw. I mean there is no lip at all to get them started.

Here is a NOS bucket, not mine found on evilbay. Not sure how to describe the finish. Something between semi gloss and matte?

 

wrote:

That is until I looked at the inner races in the neck. There was no lip at all to grab to knock them out...

I put them in my kz650, and once they were in I noticed the same thing.  It seemed like they would be impossible to get out.

When I later did my Z1R I just used the factory races and balls.  They may not last as long, but at least I know how to get them out.

wrote:

wrote:

That is until I looked at the inner races in the neck. There was no lip at all to grab to knock them out...

I put them in my kz650, and once they were in I noticed the same thing.  It seemed like they would be impossible to get out.

When I later did my Z1R I just used the factory races and balls.  They may not last as long, but at least I know how to get them out.

I’ve read this on a couple other post. I was wondering if this might work. 

Without an overhanging lip I don't see how one could tap it out, even with a cool tool like that.
There have been several threads where it was suggested that welding a bead on the face of the race will shrink it.  

www.kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/612107-race-removal#817131

Easy peasy...  wrap a wet towel around the steering head and it will soak the heat away from the sticker.

I need a welder.
Got the frame and some other parts ready to go for media blast next week.
Part of this job is removing paint. I’ve been buying small containers of every brand of the new safe strippers that I can find and I’ve only found one that works very well. Most don’t really do much to whatever this paint is. It takes time, in this case over night with a cover on the treated part but it works pretty well, unlike the rest. See photo, it’s pretty good stuff considering we can’t get old school stripper any more here. It took the paint off the cam cover fairly well, minimal hand work.
That NOS headlight bucket sure isn't gloss. I guess some of the descriptions I've been reading are incorrect. This changes my whole paint plan. I guess there is no universal agreed upon definition of gloss black.
 

Kawasaki didn't use taper roller bearings so any design flaw would be with the bearing manufacturer.  I've always been able to get down the tube with a very sharp long shaft screwdriver to get the race started.  

slmjim is being modest about his vast store of Z1 knowledge.  Hopefully he stays in this thread.