TOPIC:

wrote:

Then so far so good.

I haven’t honed and cylinders yet but did inquire into the process. It was recommended that you use white cotton tee shirts with trans fluid and continue to wipe the cylinders down till the tees come out clean. 

I used flex-hone. Instructions on package says to hone with 10-30 oil (or honing oil) - I used 0-20 (this is what I had )
They also say specifically NOT to use solvents to clean. They say to use detergent to clean.

I am not chemist. I understand it needs to be cleaned from abrasives. But not sure solvents vs detergent is because of environment or for some other reason. Anyhow, I used what I had. I cleaned with brake clean and blue paper shop towels until they came out clean. Then I oiled and packed away. When I am going to assemble - I will do another thorough cleanup.

I didn't want to introduce water/detergent at this point to avoid flash rust. 
 

I was referring to clean up. 

Getting more confidence. Measured rod clearance and side clearance. All well within specs. Getting very close to reassembly.

 

wrote:

wrote:

Then so far so good.

I haven’t honed and cylinders yet but did inquire into the process. It was recommended that you use white cotton tee shirts with trans fluid and continue to wipe the cylinders down till the tees come out clean. 

I used flex-hone. Instructions on package says to hone with 10-30 oil (or honing oil) - I used 0-20 (this is what I had )
They also say specifically NOT to use solvents to clean. They say to use detergent to clean.

I am not chemist. I understand it needs to be cleaned from abrasives. But not sure solvents vs detergent is because of environment or for some other reason. Anyhow, I used what I had. I cleaned with brake clean and blue paper shop towels until they came out clean. Then I oiled and packed away. When I am going to assemble - I will do another thorough cleanup.

I didn't want to introduce water/detergent at this point to avoid flash rust. 

 

Good old warm soapy water does the job of cleaning the bore.
The soap/detergent suspends the abrasive particles and carries them away which solvent doesn't.
Wipe with a lint free white cloth or paper towels until they come away clean.
You won't get flash rust if you oil the bores as soon as the bores are clean and dry.

Head update. Got NOS valves (all 8), new APE guides. Found local shop with great reviews. Took it there today, waiting on estimate  
I asked them to fix intake threaded holes, plug emissions and replace guides with 3-angle valve job.

The biggest concern they have is intake holes

 

As long as all the steel is out, those can be ground, welded and machined. Chris

Yes, I kind of regret I didn't get TIG, but I don't have a way to machine flat afterwards. I think they either don't have TIG in a shop or they don't feel like I want to pay for this. In any case - will wait what they say after they look at it in detail.

Yeah, I'm lucky to have a guy that is awesome with cast aluminum, says they hold a lot of oil but with the right cleaning are pretty easy to weld. As for the machining and stuff you have to get the surface flat, I use a large piece of sandpaper I get from a place with a sanding machine like a planer, It's the worn out sanding roll that they change out. It s pretty big, like 36"w x 60"l . I use it on all my surfaces and all cases that will use a gasket, has worked really well so far!! Knock on wood, Chris

Spent some time cleaning/sorting engine parts. Test of cerakote as promised.
Oil, fuel and brake fluid does not bother it.
Scraping with pick obviously works Scuffing - no. Scraping with blade - takes paint off. But no flaking or signs that it didn't adhere. So, in my book  - it works.

I also tried polishing. Not like gazz but works for me. I didn't take too much time, took me maybe 40 minutes to do this round section. With what I want - I can handle it.

 

Thanks, nice job on the polish. The big test of the Cerakote will be how it stands up to bolts being tightened. That’s were I see my choice of coatings fail. 

wrote:

Thanks, nice job on the polish. The big test of the Cerakote will be how it stands up to bolts being tightened. That’s were I see my choice of coatings fail. 

Right. Coating does not feel extremely hard. And it's very thin. If anything I expect it to scratch without chip/peal. But will see. Will keep you updated.

Spent multiple hours cleaning every thread. This is after multiple cleaning and washing. Lot's of media left on threads (after bead blasting). Now all clean and preliminary assembly (not final) started to see what else I am missing. All parts cleaned, tedious work of checking all my records, parts fiches and book started..