TOPIC:

The thing is, it's the bent one that works properly. If yours looks like mine does, then when you put a bit of choke on, nothing will happen. It should be opening the throttle slightly from none to half choke. I assume the cut-outs in the bottom part of the linkage are there to be bent into place, but can't find anything about it.
Page 152 in the manual shows how it is supposed to work.

Yes , you are right. You have to open the cut-out in the bottom part of the linkage.

Thanks. I guess I need to separate the halves again. I don't think I'll be able to get at it from the front.

So I 'fixed' the fast idle - works perfectly now. Replaced the floats with the ones from my spare set as they were in better condition. The levels were OK except for one. I bent the tab a bit and now they are all at 5mm. This is within spec but given the accuracy of the clear tube method they may be between 4.5-5.5mm. Should I worry about this? Is it worth trying to get them all to exactly 4mm?

My fast idle fix wasn't the best - Revs went through the roof with the choke on! Pulled the carbs apart again and bent it back a bit, seems pretty good now (will know for sure when I do a cold start tomorrow).
Vacuum synced the carbs. Have some pretty good gauges so I trust the numbers - they are showing about 0.20-0.22 bar at idle (about 15-17 cmHg) Manual calls for 0.29 bar (22 cmHg). I need to rev to about 1800-2000 rpm to get those numbers. Should I be worried or is it just important for them to all be the same?
I got a digital rev counter from Koso last week. I'll hook it up tomorrow and check the tacho. I may be setting the idle too low if the tacho is out.

Also, when I had the carbs synced and revved to about 3000-3500 the gauges went out of sync by about 40-50 mbar (3-4 cmHg). As far as I know this indicates a vacuum leak. It may have been the gauge hoses as it was pretty fiddly getting them on, I'll be double checking the sync tomorrow so I'll make sure they are on properly.

EDIT: Another question: do you guys with 750-4's get a stable idle at 1000-1100 rpm? The bike feels like it's going to stall at anything under 1200. May be the tacho is out though.

I would verify your tach first.

Skidmark wrote: I would verify your tach first.

First thing I did this morning and it answered a load of questions! It always felt like idling at 1500 rpm was the sweet spot, it just didn't seem to idle well below that. Hooked up the digital tach today and look at that, 1500 rpm is more like 1150-1200! Still a bit higher that the manual, but an idle speed of 1100-1200 instead of 1000-1100 is fine, whereas 1500 was really bothering me.
After that, I resynced at the new idle speed. Still a bit of variance on the sync gauges when revving, but nothing major. I let her cool down, then retorqued the cylinder head nuts. I also cleaned the plugs as I'm not doing anything more until after I've put a few hundred mile on her.

Final bit of work was the overflow tubes for the carbs. They go to the air box and I routed the airbox drain tube down the swing arm so anything that comes out should miss the rear tire, exhaust and brake disc.
All done now. Ready to get an MOT as soon as the license plate bracket arrives. Will give her a dust down and wax the tank this week, then I'll take a few more photos.

Did you get your Delkevic race exhaust registered street legal for German road use?

Scirocco wrote: Did you get your Delkevic race exhaust registered street legal for German road use?

Not yet, will be done with the other tests. Talked to the TÜV guys - they wanted to do a full riding sound test for 200-300€. Talked to some other guys and it sounds like they will just check whether the stationary noise level is within spec. Spec should be 103dB at 4750 rpm (82dB in the papers and 21dB tolerance cause I just sneak in to the pre 1981 testing bracket). Should be OK as Delkevic specs say 103-105dB @ 5700 rpm.

Still a bit nervous about it though, will keep you posted.

Get yourself a pair of "flush cut" dykes or wire cutters. They are beveled on one side only, and will trim zip ties flush to the housing. No more scratches or cut arms from those sharp tangs hanging off your zip ties. Not that I notice the little things...

Skidmark wrote: Get yourself a pair of "flush cut" dykes or wire cutters. They are beveled on one side only, and will trim zip ties flush to the housing. No more scratches or cut arms from those sharp tangs hanging off your zip ties. Not that I notice the little things...

Ha I hear you - I actually left them like that on purpose so it's easier to get them back on - they're removable zip ties. I may put some permanent ones on but I don't have any wide ones lying around.

Edit: I will be turning the one in the picture around though

103dB(N), N = National for bikes registered before 1981 is okay. So you will get some extra 21 dB(A) plus 5 dB(A) tolerance.
You should be on the safe side but some TÜV guys can deny the stationary noise level test today.