TOPIC:

Spark plug resistor caps are NGK brand.

I don't know how much it matters but those wires are resistor type and the caps are resistor too.  You don't need both.  I'm not sure about with the NGK caps but with some OEM type caps you can remove the resistor and replace it with a straight piece of metal to get rid of the resistance.

The wire is listed as RFI suppression. I have seen other wire listed as resistance wire with much more resistance than this one does.  Since I am going to be running a GPS speedometer, I hope this will help eliminate any signal interference.  I have had a real hard time trying to eliminate this issue with an Autometer Speedometer in a VW baja bug.  Been down that rabbit hole with RFI interference, and it's not fun.  If I experience any performance issues I will be sure to share the outcome.  The GPS speedo I got came from China.  Crossing my fingers on how the gauge itself works out.

Today I will apply voltage to the 40+ yo wiring on this bike.  As the battery nears completion of the charge, I grow more nervous!  Crossing all of my digits that everything is in order, and none of the magic smokes escapes.  Once I have verified all of the electrical is in working order, I will proceed with finishing up the fuel system.  Getting very close to hearing this thing fire up for the first time!   

Successful test, but not without a few issues.  Luckily I had all of the connectors sealed well enough that none of the magic smoke escaped!     Now to trace out where I went wrong with the following:

1) Turn signals come on, but won't flash.
2) Rear brake light switch turns on the brake light.  The front brake switch will not.
3) Starter button does nothing.
4) Oil pressure light does not come on.

I suspect the turn signal relay is not seeing what it wants to blink.  I am using aftermarket turns signals, which are two wire, instead of three with the stock units (two wires with a third chassis ground).

The front brake light switch is separate from the handlebar controls.  I need to verify the connection is in the right place.  The switch has two black wires, so I assume there is no hooking them up wrong.  The switch is supposed to complete the circuit and turn on the light.  It nay be a poor contact, so I will check  that I cleaned the contacts well enough.

The right handlebar switch - I will need to double check all of the connections and make sure I didn't miss anything.

I will recheck the contacts in the oil pressure switch circuit.

Everything in relation to the left handlebar switch works, with the exception of the flasher relay.  High beam, low beam, running lights, brake light, and indicator lights on the dash all work (except the oil pressure indicator).  So that much turned out  a success!  

Good to hear your have made small steps forward. 

if you ever need to refill the magic smoke I’d reach out to ronnieV.   

I am back to square one on the right handlebar control.  This is where most of my issues are.  The controls I purchased are compatible with a '76 Z900 A4, so I keep pouring over the wiring diagrams for both bikes in an effort to blend them.  The front brake light has been solved.  The handlebar control is kicking my butt, though.

Sorted out my starter issue.  The motor cranks over now.  But, I have found the oil pressure switch is malfunctioning - it is stuck open, electrically.  No continuity with an ohm meter, and should read continuity until pressure is applied. I confirmed 12v to the switch. I was hoping to find a replacement on Z1E or Partzilla, but no luck.  Any tips on finding a replacement in the US? Tried Amazon, Ebay as well.  OEM p/n 16144-006

I ended up talking to the nearest Kawi dealer, and they link other shops that may have parts.  He found a motorsports company in Michigan that showed some (?) in stock.  I called, and sure enough, he confirmed he has a new OEM unit (not used).  Worth it's own weight in gold...  after tax & shipping - $99.94.  Considering the amount of these switches left in this world I felt like I had no choice.  Expensive, but one more issue solved.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationDon´t waste your money, AFAIK, early AUDI, DAIHATSU, FORD, SEAT, SKODA, VW engines use the same 5 dollar oil pressure switch with a flat connector.




www.cmsnl.com/products/switch-asy-oil-prssur_16144006/ 25 dollar

 

There isn't enough room under the ignition plate for any part taller then OEM.  That part you posted will not fit. (or it doesn't look like it would)

It runs!!!!     Fired right up, and idled without any issues.  I took some video, but I will have to figure out how to post it.  I haven't posted video before.  My heart is still racing!  What a rush!  Exhaust note sounds good.  The valve train sounded a bit noisy, but not like it was lacking oil.  Probably just my nerves.  It has been almost 30 years since I have heard this bike run.