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Sandblast or paint stripper for frame?
- G-tron
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Originally thought I'd sandblast and powdercoat, but watched a few videos and seems most people prefer paint, and also paint stripper.
I tested out some paint stripper on the frame. Works well, but doesn't seem to remove surface rust spots completely. I also tested a wire wheel to remove the rusty spots completely. But it leaves a slighty scratched appearance behind. I dont mind doing the work, but do you think this is the best approach to follow? I don't want the wire wheel marks showing up on the frame afterwards. There is also some minor pitting once some of the rust spots are removed.
I'm open to sending the frame in for sandblasting, but only if that will result in a better finish. The centre stand is by far the worst part of the frame as far as surface rust is concerned. Thinking of sending it in to see how the sandblast compares.
Some pics:
Eat, Sleep, Ride
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- G-tron
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- Nerdy
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G-tron wrote: Got my bike stripped down to the frame. Next step is getting the frame stripped and repainted.
Originally thought I'd sandblast and powdercoat, but watched a few videos and seems most people prefer paint, and also paint stripper.
I tested out some paint stripper on the frame. Works well, but doesn't seem to remove surface rust spots completely. I also tested a wire wheel to remove the rusty spots completely. But it leaves a slighty scratched appearance behind. I dont mind doing the work, but do you think this is the best approach to follow? I don't want the wire wheel marks showing up on the frame afterwards. There is also some minor pitting once some of the rust spots are removed.
I'm open to sending the frame in for sandblasting, but only if that will result in a better finish. The centre stand is by far the worst part of the frame as far as surface rust is concerned. Thinking of sending it in to see how the sandblast compares.
My vote is for sandblasting. You'll have a consistent surface over the frame afterwards (without wire marks) and you'll have a much better chance of removing all of the rust before you refinish.
Paint may be cheaper than powdercoating and it's something a person can do at home easily. Sandblast + paint seems like a reasonable combination.
1967 Yamaha YCS1 Bonanza
1980 KZ440B
1981 Yamaha XT250H
1981 KZ440 LTD project bike
1981 GPz550
2013 Yamaha FZ6R
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- davido
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Media blasting will give you a better result,I reckon.
Im glad I didnt go for powdercoating as I had to change some things and reweld some bits after it was painted. Not a big deal retouching the paint. Good luck trying to do that with powdercoat.
(To avoid scratching,try a brass wire brush rather than a steel one.)
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/594313-csr1000-project-build
CB550 (1978)
CB500/4 (1972)*
KZ1000CSR (1981)
XT 600E (1999)
TDM900 (2003)
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- G-tron
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Rustiest bit on the bike is the bottom of the battery tray. Hope it holds up.
I must say, the more I tear into this bike the more I like it. I was originally looking for a yamaha xj, but this kawasaki is working for me.
Eat, Sleep, Ride
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- z1kzonly
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Check out your local Cemetery Monuments, Headstones etc. For about 20 years I had an old Guy that would sand blast my stuff! He had a huge walk in booth. He was not a bike or car Guy, just a nice old timer. He figured he could make a few cash dollars on the side when his business was slow. Worked out great for me.
But blasting is it! your gonna have to get some primer on it right away! It will start rusting quick
Livin in "CheektaVegas, NY
Went thru 25 of these in 40 yrs.
I SOLD OUT! THE KAW BARN IS EMPTY.
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Starts everytime!
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- Mikaw
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1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
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- Nessism
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When cleaning my frame I first used paint stripper, then a wire wheel, followed by a phosphate wash. But the last step was a coal slag blast.
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- G-tron
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Do I need to do anything to protect it? If so how?
Also, I was thinking satin black for the frame. Is that the right type of black for the frame? What about the front forks, wheels, engine etc. It's all going black, but i don't want it looking strange by being the wrong type (gloss, matt, semi-gloss, satin)
And then some quick questions some of you will probably know all the answers to:
a) is the frame stainless? I want to add a new rear hoop and cut the stock tail off.
b) Any risk of warping the frame when welding the rear hoop? Does it need to be braced before/during?
Eat, Sleep, Ride
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- Nerdy
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G-tron wrote: Ah good point about the frame number. Mine doesn't have a "sticker". Just the frame number stamped into the headstock.
Do I need to do anything to protect it? If so how?
You can ask the blasting folks to go easy on that area, though if they've done motorcycles before they probably know that already.
Also, I was thinking satin black for the frame. Is that the right type of black for the frame? What about the front forks, wheels, engine etc. It's all going black, but i don't want it looking strange by being the wrong type (gloss, matt, semi-gloss, satin)
I think satin would be the best choice. Matte will look dull and will be difficult to keep clean. Gloss will show every imperfection.
And then some quick questions some of you will probably know all the answers to:
a) is the frame stainless? I want to add a new rear hoop and cut the stock tail off.
b) Any risk of warping the frame when welding the rear hoop? Does it need to be braced before/during?
If the frame were stainless you would probably have a lot less rust. No, it's just regular steel.
When you're welding, it's a good idea to go slowly to minimize heat buildup. In this case you could weld a bit on one side and then move to the other side. I've seen people use a smaller piece of steel tubing inside the pieces to be joined: it holds the hoop and the frame in alignment and makes a stronger joint.
1967 Yamaha YCS1 Bonanza
1980 KZ440B
1981 Yamaha XT250H
1981 KZ440 LTD project bike
1981 GPz550
2013 Yamaha FZ6R
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- G-tron
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Nerdy wrote: If the frame were stainless you would probably have a lot less rust. No, it's just regular steel.
Thought it might be some low grade stainless like 403 or some arb alloy blend. But thanks. surprised it held up so well for regular mild steel then.
Eat, Sleep, Ride
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