TOPIC:

A little update on the gasket stuff. So far it hasn't set completely, though I am just looking at the squeeze out. It is still a little on the pasty side, but it has been cold here. I think leaving it until Monday will be a good idea, but I will check on it again tomorrow to see if it looks to be curing.

SO, I'm thinking that I prematurely removed the warning light self checker from my 750. It appears that the low fuel light won't function properly without it. While examining the WD to try to figure out how I would wire it back in, I realized that my clymer's wd for my bike has the wiring for the oil pressure sensor and low fuel sensor circuits mixed up. Check it out!

750 E3 WD

And, while looking, if any of you electrical gurus can confirm that I would just hook up the brown to switched power, the middle y/b to the low fuel circuit, and the other y/b to ground. Is that correct? I got a little turned around because of the whole mixed up wd thing lol!


EDIT: Or do I really not need it? I'm not sure how much gas was actually in the tank when it came on.... :/


EDIT #2: Or maybe I wired it backwards and that makes it stay on all the time? Not sure why that would make a difference though. When the gasket stuff on my petcock adapter dries, I will put some gas in, and go for a ride to fill it up. If the Light stays on, I will try switching them first to see if it makes a difference...

clutch wrote: A little update on the gasket stuff. So far it hasn't set completely, though I am just looking at the squeeze out. It is still a little on the pasty side, but it has been cold here. I think leaving it until Monday will be a good idea, but I will check on it again tomorrow to see if it looks to be curing.

I just went out to the garage and tried to torque the adapter plate bolts down a little more. They are as tight as they will go, so I'm hoping that means the gasket material has set. If I have a little time before work tomorrow, I will put some gas in it to see how it holds up...if not, I will do it on Monday. Either way, I will update on how well the stuff sealed the tank for me.

Did you get your Low Fuel Light straightened out?
The reason for the err in the Clymer is it is that way from Kawasaki. here is the Kaw version in Filebase: www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/311-z750e3
Same mixed up diagram.
Brown is Ignition switched 12v, the two Black/ yellows from the sensor in the tank, one to ground ie chassis, and the other to the bulb. So the bulb has switched 12v to the center, and the Black/ yellow from the tank to the outer case.

Motor Head wrote: Did you get your Low Fuel Light straightened out?
The reason for the err in the Clymer is it is that way from Kawasaki. here is the Kaw version in Filebase: www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/311-z750e3
Same mixed up diagram.
Brown is Ignition switched 12v, the two Black/ yellows from the sensor in the tank, one to ground ie chassis, and the other to the bulb. So the bulb has switched 12v to the center, and the Black/ yellow from the tank to the outer case.

Not quite yet (still need to put some gas in the tank), but after thinking about it for a while, I wonder if it has something to do with using an LED indicator instead of the standard type bulb? My understanding is that it somehow works off of resistance, and resistance is very low with the LED's. I know the wiring is correct, as I did it custom..just not sure if it makes a difference which one off the sensor comes from the indicator, and which goes to ground.

You may already know this, but LED is Light Emitting Diode, so it makes a difference which way the current flows through the LED bulb. It will only work in one direction.
Like I said you probably know this.

Motor Head wrote: You may already know this, but LED is Light Emitting Diode, so it makes a difference which way the current flows through the LED bulb. It will only work in one direction.
Like I said you probably know this.

Right. I know that part is wired correctly, because the indicator comes on. I'm just not 100% sure that it is going off when it should (not low on fuel).

So it is staying ON? That might be because of the small resistance still in the Thermistor. Maybe wire it up to either a relay or a transistor to switch it, on/ off.

Motor Head wrote: So it is staying ON? That might be because of the small resistance still in the Thermistor. Maybe wire it up to either a relay or a transistor to switch it, on/ off.

Ok, I consider myself to be pretty good at wiring things, but I'm no electrical engineer. LOL! Can you explain how I would wire the relay or transistor to fix the problem? Also, would one of those inline resistor thingies (that's the technical term ) that are used to run led turns with stock flasher units possibly solve the problem as well?

EDIT: It should definitely have been OFF with all the gas I had in it (probably about 3 gallons), so I'm thinking maybe the LED issue is the problem.

clutch wrote:

clutch wrote: A little update on the gasket stuff. So far it hasn't set completely, though I am just looking at the squeeze out. It is still a little on the pasty side, but it has been cold here. I think leaving it until Monday will be a good idea, but I will check on it again tomorrow to see if it looks to be curing.

I just went out to the garage and tried to torque the adapter plate bolts down a little more. They are as tight as they will go, so I'm hoping that means the gasket material has set. If I have a little time before work tomorrow, I will put some gas in it to see how it holds up...if not, I will do it on Monday. Either way, I will update on how well the stuff sealed the tank for me.

Poured the gas back in the tank today. First a little, then a thorough check to see if it was leaking. Then I poured the rest. 20-30 mins after refilling it, there is still no leak as checked by rubbing a dry finger around the edge of the plate, over the mounting bolts and around the petcock itself. Hopefully this stuff will hold strong for a while! So initially, my thought is that the Permatex No 1 gasket material is the thing to get to seal a petcock adapter plate!

WTF!!??!??!?!?!?!?!?!?!?

DON'T USE PERMATEX NO 1 ON GAS TANKS! IT IS COMPLETE CRAP THAT IT IS GAS RESISTANT. I let this stuff cure for THREE DAYS and this is about an hour after putting gas back in my tank...this is plain ridiculous for something that is supposed to be gas resistant!!!!!

clutch wrote: WTF!!??!??!?!?!?!?!?!?!?

DON'T USE PERMATEX NO 1 ON GAS TANKS! IT IS COMPLETE CRAP THAT IT IS GAS RESISTANT. I let this stuff cure for THREE DAYS and this is about an hour after putting gas back in my tank...this is plain ridiculous for something that is supposed to be gas resistant!!!!!

Yikes!
Is all that gasoline?
And all from leak where petcock attaches to the fuel tank?

This looks worse than it was without any sealant.

Once used Permatex #2 (stays slightly soft and flexible) on a partially stripped carb drain plug, which eliminated gasoline leakage for several days before the new plug arrived.

Yellow (instead of white) teflon tape is supposedly more fuel resistant.
There is also a dedicated "fuel line sealant" available at auto supply stores.

Isn't there a rubber o'ring or gasket between the adapter and tank?
And perhaps another o'ring where the petcock screws into the adapter plate?

For comparison, the stock Z1 and KZ900 have a threaded bung protruding from bottom rear of fuel tank, to which a two-way nut attaches the petcock. In the center of the nut is an internal o'ring that the nut simultaneously tightens against both the bung and the petcock, which creates a leak-proof seal.

Without the rubber o'ring inside the two-way nut, the fitment would leak like crazy.

Good Fortune!