Fork Bracing?

As part of my ongoing rebuild of my KZ, I've been looking at fork braces for the spindly front end. Yes I know, I can graft on newer forks, but then I'm looking to keep things sort of period correct.

Anyway, I found these on flea bay and wanted to get a few opinions for the learned folk in these parts...

cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&it...2&fromMakeTrack=true

Reading the description, it says the box isn't available but it was only taken out to photograph?

Maybe I'm being too suspicious...

thanks....Sam

Looks rugged enough.... would it bolt on with your fender still in place?
Can somebody explain the word "stichion" used in the description of that brace?:S

Stichion is the words Stick & Friction together. Kind of a hold, release, hold, release action is the forks try to compress and extend in their travel.

Later Doug

Samwell wrote:

As part of my ongoing rebuild of my KZ, I've been looking at fork braces for the spindly front end. Yes I know, I can graft on newer forks, but then I'm looking to keep things sort of period correct.

Anyway, I found these on flea bay and wanted to get a few opinions for the learned folk in these parts...

cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&it...2&fromMakeTrack=true

Reading the description, it says the box isn't available but it was only taken out to photograph?

Maybe I'm being too suspicious...

thanks....Sam

period correct,my kind of guy!

i have the exact one, it needs paint if you want it let me know.

I've used that same brace for 18 years and it has worked great. The stock fender still fits over it. I recently had to buy the clamp style since I went with a wider front wheel and had to modify the forks and fender. There just isn't room for my 3.5" front wheel. The clamp style mounts on the very top of the fork legs, above the fender. If not for the wheel mod I'd still use the same type. I also have two of these if you're interested...:whistle:

Post edited by: 79MKII, at: 2006/12/14 20:31

del

79MKII wrote:

....I also have two of these if you're interested...:whistle:

<br><br>Post edited by: 79MKII, at: 2006/12/14 20:31

If it will fit a KZ650B/C model, I'm all over it like stink on sh...
Seriously, which bike(s) do they fit?

StreetfighterKz wrote:

Stichion is the words Stick & Friction together. Kind of a hold, release, hold, release action is the forks try to compress and extend in their travel.

Later Doug

Thanks. Learn something new every day, they say... now I can coast for the rest of today!

I couldn't resist. :blink: I had to look it up, and post this.

Stiction
Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia - Cite This Source

Stiction is an informal contraction of the term "static friction" ("&#956;s"), perhaps also influenced by the verb "stick".
Two solid objects pressing against each other (but not sliding) will require some threshold of force parallel to the surface of contact in order to overcome static cohesion. Stiction is a threshold, not a continuous force.

Experiment to Demonstrate Stiction
Place a wooden block near one end of a long wooden board. Leaving the far end of the board on the floor, lift the end with the block until the slope of the board is sufficient for the block to begin sliding downward without being pushed. Then lower the board slightly.

Placing the block again at the top, it will not begin to slide on its own. However, it will begin and continue to slide if given a small initial push. The push adds the necessary force to overcome stiction. Once the block is moving, it no longer requires the larger force.

Stiction and Automobile Driving
Stiction is also the same threshold at which a rolling object would begin to slide over a surface rather than rolling at the expected rate (and in the case of a wheel, in the expected direction). In this case, it's called "rolling friction" or "&#956;r".

This is why driver training courses teach that if a car begins to slide sideways, the driver should try to steer in the same direction as the slide with no brakes. It gives the wheels a chance to regain static contact by rolling, which gives the driver some control again. An overentheusiastic driver may "squeal" the driving wheels trying to get a rapid start but this impressive display of noise and smoke is less effective than maintaining static contact with the road. Many stunt-driving techniques are also done by deliberately breaking and/or regaining this rolling friction.

A car on a slippery surface can slide a long way if the driver "locks" the wheels in stationary positions by pressing hard on the brakes. Anti-lock brake systems use some means of detecting this dangerous situation automatically, then interrupt the braking, giving the tires a chance to re-establish the higher resistance of stiction many times per second in rapid succession. Anti-lock brakes can be much more effective than cadence braking which is essentially a non-automatic technique for doing the same thing, though human beings quickly adapt to the same level of risk (see Risk Compensation).

I used a SR front fender on my 900LTD cause I wanted a painted fender and I liked the look of the chrome nuts against the paint. I was pretty amazed at the thickness of the piece that the fender attaches to. It is basically a fork brace. I always said If I was gonna do a tracker I would get one of those for it.

del