Which handlebars do you use?

Ed, what's the width of the stock 650 bars? Looks good!

I run Euro bars, they're a little narrow for me, but I ride MX alot so I prefer a wider flat bar. Had to tweak the clutch cable and brake line routing a bit. Anything shorter you need new cables/lines or it will just look retarded.

74ullc wrote: The more I look the more I get confused. It seems every vendor lists the specs (Width, Rise, Pullback) for the same bars different.

I'm thinking of trying the Daytona bars. Looks like Z1E will exchange them as long as you don't install them....then again....it will cost more to ship them back than the cost of the bars.

I think they differ from manufacturer but are named the same with regards to style. I just purchased another Euro bars which are not an EMGO like the one I had purchased before. They don't seem to be the same as the EMGO. Haven't installed them yet but I'm a bit leery and wish that I would have gotten the EMGO's instead.

I'm going to switch my '80 G1 to a lower bar. Definitely need shorter cables and brake line. Would lines such as a '77 A1 be short enough
to keep everything not bunched up? What should I use to shorten all up(clutch, throttle, and brake line)?

I was thinking that the '77 throttle may be a push pull setup and the '80 is a single cable so what would I use to shorten it?

Z1 Enterprises should be able to set you up if you know what length you want. (Hint: take your existing ones, measure them, then figure out how much shorter they need to be.)

If you're going to run the wiring inside the handlebars, read this:

Pulling Wire Bundles Inside Handlebars

Before running any wiring inside the bars, take time to see if any sharp "Burrs" are there, otherwise they will quickly strip any insulation away from the wire's conductors, resulting in an electrical short.

A Dremel tool with a small stone grinding bit will smooth most burrs away. If a Dremel is not available, a small round rat tail file works just as good.

Any electrical wire splices, should be “Staggered” to avoid a lump, so the bundle will pull smoothly through the handlebar(s).

When preparing to pull the wire bundle through the bars, carefully taper the bundle's end with masking tape as this makes for a better pulling situation.

I use aircraft 0.032" diameter safety wire secured to the wire bundle as a pulling medium, Nylon string or small diameter cord will work for this too.

Silicone spray or electricians pulling lubricant should be applied to the end of the wires to ease the operation. It's best to have a helper while doing this to avoid problems of possible pinched or damaged wires. Have your helper apply a steady pulling effort while you carefully feed the wire bundle into the handlebars.

After the job of pulling is done, get a multimeter, set it on the lowest ohm setting, open up the switch housings to access the wire ends and then see if a wire of two has shorted out.

Put one probe on the handlebar and the other on any soldered wire ends on the switches and see if the meter indicates continuity by either making a buzz(some meters have built in buzzers) or a display on the meter face.

An analog meter(the type with the needle indicator) will act similar (except no buzzer) by showing usually a full deflection(needle movement)if there is a short by again, checking with the lowest setting on the ohm scale of the meter.

Finding a short now is a whole lot better than when it's wired up & blowing fuses or possible stranding you on the road.....

Kidkawie wrote: Ed, what's the width of the stock 650 bars? Looks good!

I run Euro bars, they're a little narrow for me, but I ride MX alot so I prefer a wider flat bar. Had to tweak the clutch cable and brake line routing a bit. Anything shorter you need new cables/lines or it will just look retarded.

Sorry for the late answer; I just now saw the question. Here's the stock KZ650-B & C bar measurements. Ed