'83 KZ1100-A3 Shaft Front Forks Stiffening

OK, Searched the forums and couldn't find much about disassembling the front forks and stiffening them. have heard i can pop the top caps and put in spacers or even some valve springs, to stiffen up the front end so it doesn't dip so hard. any dangers? or any advice on how to stiffen up the front. I've got an air valve and crossover tube on em but the air pressure doesn't seem to help to much.

if i pop the caps and i gonna catch a spring in the face? can i shim the springs to stiffen them?
oil viscosity and refilling? or just new springs?

also wondering about either a taller or stiffer setup for the rear suspension. It has air shocks on it now?

FYI: I'm a big guy so I'm looking for something that wont compress as much when i hit my brakes and the weight shifts, or when i have a rider on the back.

When is the last time the fork oil was changed and what viscosity fork oil was put in? Ed

no clue bought it a couple months ago and am learning about bikes with it. finally got the clutch Issues lined out now im working on suspension.

First step before worrying about replacing springs, adding spacers. etc. would be to thoroughly flush fork oil (using new fork oil as the flushing agent) and then fill to the correct level (find this in Kawasaki manual) with Bel-Ray 15W fork oil. If the forks still are not as stiff as you would like them you can mix Bel-Ray 20w fork oil with the 15w (they are compatible) until you achieve the desired stiffness. I weigh in at a bit over 200 lb and even with my wife (about 115 lb) on the back I don't experience excessive fork dive on mt KZ650 using 15w Bel-Ray fork oil. When changing fork oil do 1 side at a time. If you drain both sides at the same time the forks will drop down more than is desired. Just unscrew the little drain screw on one side and pump the forks up and down until that side is empty. BUT have someone with a coffee can or something to catch the oil while you pump. Then add new oil and pump it through again to get rid of all the old stuff. Fill to correct level, re-install spring and cap, and then do other side. If your bike fork oil is old and/or nasty this should improve their performance. Ed

is their a special tool or process to pop off the caps and remove the springs? i heard they can blast out of the forks with alot of force.

650ed wrote: ...unscrew the little drain screw on one side and pump the forks up and down until that side is empty. BUT have someone with a coffee can or something to catch the oil while you pump. Then add new oil and pump it through again to get rid of all the old stuff. Fill to correct level, re-install spring and cap, and then do other side....

I placed a close second to 650ed in the contest of "How far can you squirt nasty fork oil across the garage?" :woohoo:

In order to assure losing such a contest, it's okay to wrap a shop rag or old towel around the drain outlet while pumping.

Good Fortune!

For a free down-loadable KZ1100 service manual,
click > www.kawiworld.com/index.php?option=com_c...;id=77&Itemid=99

Would doubt that the fork caps are dangerous to remove, but guessing best to first release any air pressure.
The manual should provide detailed procedure.

Good Fortune!

awesome link ty brother

'83 kz1100 ltd here...fork oil '89 @ 20w, falls deep stiffly and rebounds poorly, suffers for a change so I will follow others' advice her re: Bel-Ray. Shoulda done that first myself. Agreeing with these guys, out of the gate do what is a must- definitely start with the oil change.

So happens I already had to tweak the other end out of necessity as the bumpers were falling out of the stock shocks and rebound failed. Found used Progressive 440's- super ride I would recommend for any kz1100. Now to balance, though, had to go in for their fork springs (dad saw great handling improvement on his '94 Concours). Not pricey but hope you get out a bit easier.

Enjoy your 1100!

FWIW, could be the springs are dead too- I blew out a couple of fork seals before..yeah yeah...I measured the springs...guess what? Nice stiff front end, smooth ride and seals haven't blown out...
Same goes if one spring is a different length- replace 'em.

Please excusr me for chimeing in but why dont you just put a little more air in the fork. It has an air stem on top of the fork. Try about 14 lbs and see if that does what you need. It is the quickest solution. (Mike)

I forgot that to get air in the forka you need to back out the bolt at the cross-overs so air will get in them. Then tighten them back up. I figured tghis out after reading my manual. Go figure!