Trim my spokes?

Just laced up my rear wheel with a set of new spokes from Z1E. They look great and all, but I still have some slack left in quite a few of my spokes, and I have my spoke threaded flush with the top of the nipple? As I get ready to throw this on my truing stand, I am curious as to whether I will be running out of thread..... ideas?

are they all same,what pattern?

No they are not the same. The rear kit came split in two bags one with spokes having an angle greater than 90 degrees and another bag having an angle less than 90. I used the spokes with the large angle on the insides where the fit was most appropriate.

I followed the same pattern from the old wheel spokes that you see below. I am open to new pattern but have been unable to locate supporting literature.

They will tighten past where the spoke protrudes through the nipple. How loose are they still when they are flush? You wouldn't want them to stick out much more than a 1/16 or so, if they want to protrude more than an 1/8 I'd say that you should have shorter spokes.

calvin17d wrote:

No they are not the same. The rear kit came split in two bags one with spokes having an angle greater than 90 degrees and another bag having an angle less than 90. I used the spokes with the large angle on the insides where the fit was most appropriate.

I followed the same pattern from the old wheel spokes that you see below. I am open to new pattern but have been unable to locate supporting literature.

:S

The hub does not move, but there are a few that still have play at the button. It will be coming close to stay within an 1/8". Here's the new spokes.

mjg15 wrote:

They will tighten past where the spoke protrudes through the nipple.

Are you suggesting that they are capable of this, or that this is common for these wheels/spokes?

The threads on the spokes are raised, I think that this called a "rolled" thread, but I'm not sure. The nipples will continue to tighten after you can no longer see thread on the spoke, and after the spoke protrudes thru the back of the nipple. It sounds like you are fine if you no longer have any hub movement, you will be surprised how quickly that extra play gets taken up once you begin to true and tighten the wheel. Just be sure to tighten each spoke the same amount til tight, by this I mean turn each a 1/4 turn at a time til tight, as opposed to taking the slack out of each and then tightening.

I've done a few hundred wheels, both motorcycle and bicycle, and I usually follow the same routine:

-Lube threads and seating surfaces (light grease/heavy oil)

-Lace spokes into proper locations

-Tighten the nipples onto the spokes evenly, I usually thread the nipples on til I just barely see the beginning of the last thread on the spoke. This is almost always possible if the spokes are the correct length. If you cant thread them that far without them becoming tight, then make sure that you have a similar amount of threads showing on each spoke.

-At this point You will have to determine dish for centering the wheel, and then tighten the spokes. From this point in the process I always turn each nipple 1/4 turn at a time, in sequence, while rotating the wheel. Be sure to always start from the valve stem hole so that you dont lose your place. While doing this always resist the temptaion to turn the loose ones more than 1/4 turn. Eventually they will become as tight as the rest as the wheel become tensioned

Are they OEM rims? I agree with mjg15 about maxing out at 1/16". I had some spokes protrude too much on aftermarket rims I just ground them down smooth and ran 2 layers of duct tape.

Here's how I do wheels: kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...ew&catid=5&id=415983

calvin17d wrote:

The hub does not move, but there are a few that still have play at the button. It will be coming close to stay within an 1/8". Here's the new spokes.

Something ain't clickin here? That should not be.

Was that bottle of Scotch full when you started lacing them spokes? :woohoo:

Give it a quick test spin with the axle in your hands to see if it is close.

Cal, Just double checking terms. Inside spokes should have less angle, and have a shorter distance from bend to "button" than outside's. other quick checks are that rim nipple angles "agree" with spoke angles from hub (IE; leading or trailing, easily assertained bu wear pattern of old spokes on "used hub" ) also that rim nipples are correct for left & right.. when all are correct, spokes will just clear rim for insertion without "tweaking" I usually start w/all nipples with a thread or 2 still exposed on spokes. luck G

Maybe I have my terminology backward. I certainly hope I dont have my spokes on backward. Here is a diagram showing how I have my rim laced up. Note the angle on the spokes.