Front Fork Wheel Studs

RedlineJunkie wrote:

Hey all, new guy here but have 33 years of riding experience and was a motorcycle mechanic for ten years.

Anyway, I just bought a '77 KZ1000 and was replacing the steering head bearings plus a fork oil change. While in the process of changing the fork oil, I noticed that the axle studs were stretched bad! This is the kind of stuff that can bite a rider hard.

Just thought I'd post a picture of this and remind everyone to keep an eye out for this kind of stuff.

One of my KZ1000A1's had an identical situation...I ended up replacing both lower forks with a set from a 1978 KZ1000A2 (available on eBay relatively inexpensive)...swapped sides so I could still use the front brake/disk set-up. The previous owner was aware of the front fork problem but failed to disclose it to me. He is not one of my favorite people.

testarossa wrote:

I hope you paid more. You got a lot more front fender than I did. What did that thing come from? Harley with a 21"?

LOL! I'm thinking it might be from a CB900F but it's going away. I got a fender from a KZ650D from the bone yard that's MUCH better looking.

Mcdroid, I'm heading out for a stud search right now. I've got a local hardware store with a rockin' selection of fasteners that takes up a whole room. Sorry to hear the PO of your bike was a peckerhead. I guess it really goes to show that on these older bikes, a complete inspection is mandatory.

The front fork axle clamp has a gap after correct tightening in the rear(I believe) if the owner does not read the shop manual and tries to close this gap, stretched studs will result.

Some one wrote in I believe last year, after snapping a stud off in a fork after trying to tighten the clamp to close this gap. He had to carefully dril out and replace the broken stud.

MFolks wrote:

The front fork axle clamp has a gap after correct tightening in the rear(I believe) if the owner does not read the shop manual and tries to close this gap, stretched studs will result.

Some one wrote in I believe last year, after snapping a stud off in a fork after trying to tighten the clamp to close this gap. He had to carefully dril out and replace the broken stud.

You are absolutely correct, there is supposed to be a gap in the rear of the axle clamp. There is also an arrow on the bottom of the cap that should be facing forward. After the clamp is snugged up and the front gap closed up, the front stud nut should be torqued first and then the rear.

The hardware store had it! 8mm x 1.25 pitch x 50mm. I love that place. Completed the steering head bearings, fork oil change and mounted up the new used fender. The fender required just a bit of modification and tweaking to get it set right. Pushed the forks up 21/32" while I was at it.

For improved stability, get yourself a good fork brace. www.fastfromthepast.com used to carry a good selection.

MFolks wrote:

For improved stability, get yourself a good fork brace. www.fastfromthepast.com used to carry a good selection.

Very nice braces. I'll to have to check the dimensions to make sure that they will fit with this custom front fender. I had planned on another style brace, but I like your suggestion better. Thanks!

Edit: I'm really liking the rearsets too!

Did you pull out the studs??? and how??
I have similar problem on my right fork leg???
Do I need to drill or can I weld peace of metal and unscrew them from the botom of the fork leg???

The front fork studs for the axel clamps are threaded on both ends,usually double nutting will work when removing them.

Take two nuts that fit the threads, tighten them together, and put a wrench on the one closest to the fork leg turning the nut the usual "righty tighty,left to loosen" manner.

RedlineJunkie wrote:

Mcdroid, I'm heading out for a stud search right now. I've got a local hardware store with a rockin' selection of fasteners that takes up a whole room. Sorry to hear the PO of your bike was a peckerhead. I guess it really goes to show that on these older bikes, a complete inspection is mandatory.

z1-kz900/1000 through 1980 use same fork studs,kz900/1000 exhuast studs are same as lower fork studs also

IT is alive.Where u been Dr.Plummen?bj

MFolks wrote:

The front fork studs for the axel clamps are threaded on both ends,usually double nutting will work when removing them.

Take two nuts that fit the threads, tighten them together, and put a wrench on the one closest to the fork leg turning the nut the usual "righty tighty,left to loosen" manner.

Double nutting got them right out, no problem. They are not pressed in. If you are having difficulty getting the stud out using this method, a lock washer between the two nuts works great or you can heat the fork lower (make sure you have the fork apart and the fluid drained) OR you can use a stud tool that has rollers that grab the stud. I had a nice set made in Germany that cost me $250 bucks back in the day...

Use locktight blue when you re-install the studs for safteys sake and to prevent galling. I also made sure that my studs were grade 8.8 (metric equivilent to SAE grade 5).