Monoshock Rebuild

Step 16) Install the o-ring in the groove on the valve.

Step 17) Install the new teflon slider on the valve. I lubricated mine with a little fresh shock oil just before I slid the assembly back into the shock body. The slider has a step cut in the end, and it must be manually held together as you start the valve into the shock body. Just like installing your pistons, right?

Now before we begin to re-assemble the shock, I'll throw in one of those pointers in the DVD.

THIS APPLIES TO EVERYONE, EVEN IF YOU ARE JUST REBUILDING WITH STOCK COMPONENTS.

Stock guys pick up here. Measure the inside diameter of the shock body with calipers or a bore gauge. BE CAREFUL NOT TO SCRATCH THE BORE! Now measure the outside diameter of the teflon slider on the valve just over where that o-ring is under the slider. If the OD of the slider is smaller than the ID of the shock body, then the o-ring is trashed. Guess what that means kids. Oil passing around the valve, not dampening. This was my third problem with my shock. More cuss words.

Never fear, Race Tech has your o-ring and new sliders if necessary.

Measuring the ID of the shock:

Measuring the OD of the slider on the valve:

Step 18) Re-assembly. First position the reservoir upright so that you can fill it with oil. If you removed the hydraulic line you must replace it before you start filling or you are lubricating your work bench with some $20/qt liquid gold.

This procedure can differ depending on the orientation of your reservoir to the shock. Since mine is remote, I clamped them side by side to make life a little easier.

Step 19) Partially fill the reservoir with oil. Pour slowly, so as not to create air bubbles. We want ZERO air bubbles. At this point I held the reservoir up higher than the shock body to ensure that the oil had displaced the air in the hydraulic line, and was flowing into the shock. Add enough oil so that it will overflow when you install the bladder with attached piston.

Step 20) Install the bladder and push it down past the circlip groove. Remember to push it in slowly, and don't worry if some oil spills out, that's good. Now re-install the circlip, and MAKE SURE IT IS WELL SEATED.

Piston in:

Step 21) Seat the piston. Re-install the valve core and slightly pressurize the reservoir. This should force the piston upward and seat it against the circlip.

Step 22) Add oil to the shock body until it is approximately 2/3 full. We want to have the valve completely submerged when we are bleeding it. Hold that teflon slider on there and carefully work it back into the shock. Push the piston into the oil and top it off if necessary.

To bleed the valve, you press down quickly to expel the trapped air. Then let the bubbles surface. Next, slowly pull the valve upwards, but do not let it surface. Repeat until there is no more air escaping.

Step 23) Now we need to insert the seal head. There should be enough oil that it overflows when the seal head is pushed in. You should be able to push it down until the o-ring starts to seal in the shock. At this point it is hydro-locked, and you need to release some pressure at the reservoir in order to get the seal head fully inside. With one hand, crack the valve core while pushing the seal head down with the other hand. This should compress the bladder and allow the seal head to pass the o-ring groove without allowing any air inside.

Step 24) With the seal head past the circlip groove, re-install the circlip. Make sure that the circlip is well seated, and also make sure that the valve core is screwed in fully at the reservoir. Now add a little air pressure to seat the seal head against the circlip.