SURVEY: How Do You Change a Tire?

Mcdroid wrote:

Good advice here on changing tires...but not to be flippant, I'd rather fork over the US$60 to change two tires than do it myself...I found it to be that much of a hassle...most other things I'll tackle:)

I usually do, but I thought I'd try to save the $25 on this one.

PLUMMEN wrote:

has your wheel been trued up?some tires take a lot of weight to get them to balance also .back in the 80s when carlisle sold a lot of tires i had one that i couldnt get to balance on the front no matter how many times we tried,switched tires and never had a problem again.

Not only that, you will find tires that spin balance up just fine but don't run smooth because they are not round. I had a set of those once on my old Charger. The speed shop that did those tires actually lathed the face of the tire tread first to make them true, then balanced them. It usually didn't take much weight then and they ran smooth as fast as the car could go.

timebomb33 wrote:

the first thing i do when i'm changing tires on a freshly bought z'r is shitcan the bead locks they are not needed unless you are restoring the bike. then it makes tire changing easy. like don said put one side on, then put baby powder on the tube so the levers will slide off the tube instead of bite in to the tube. i always put the valve stem in the hole and then put the nut on a few threads not tight, the spread the tube around the rest of way. when that is done i pump the tube up so it straightens the wrinkles and folds out. then i put the valve core back in and put a bit of air into the tube so you have a tougher time pinching it with your levers i normally like to use the michilen type levers as opposed to the straight levers i have 3 that i normally use when im doing a tire. MAKE SURE TO USE PLENTY OF LUBE IMPORTANT ON THE BEADS OF THE TIRE.if i'm at home i use dish soap,in the shop we use tire lube do not use grease or any type of oils they can break down the rubber in the tube and tire.then start working the free side onto the wheel. you should be able to get about 1/2 or 3/4 of the tire on to the rim before you ever have touch the levers. make sure the bead you have just put on stays down in the drop center of the wheelthan take small bites of the tire no more than 2" or so and work your way around the tire. until you get it all on. if it tightens up and you find yourself forcing it take smaller bites and double check that the tire is down in the drop center. you should have it on. turn the tire by hand until the valve stem straightens out then tighten the nut. put the air to it and bead it up. try not to use more than 40 lbs in it to bead up.if it dosen't go right away empty the air and break down the beads relube again it should go now. hopefully this helps you out. now i have to rest my finger that was tough with one finger

Thanks for the info.

RonKZ650 wrote:

A tire changer would be nice, but I do all mine myself manually since I was 13 yrs old. My dad was not real mechanical, so we kind of learned to do our own work by age of 8 :laugh: so that's 35 yrs now. There's really no secret, mount one side of the tire over the wheel, there's a mark on the new tire for balance reference, line this up with the valve stem. Bead locks if used installed next. Need a small screwdriver or other tool to push through the holes to push the rubber band up enough to get a hold of it, then slip the beadlock through the hole, then the rubber band over the beadlock. Put the tube in and tighten the stem so it stays straight, put air in the tube, then remove the valve core. Put some kind of tire lube on, not soap and water as this causes corrosion. Lever the tire on, put air in the tube and pray for a few seconds. Holds air, sigh of relieve, then fill up till it seats on the wheel. Yes sometimes a bear to get seat, but eventually it's seated and all done. No need to balance, just ride away. I know balance is essential, I've read it, I don't do it and have not had one problem yet in 35 yrs.

I remember on rears, it's WAYYYY easier to install the rim strip first (before doing anything else) and just snip a couple of holes in it for the bolts on the bead locks. The bead locks are solid rubber so it doesn't hurt to let the tube ride against them. Trying to get that rim strip in last was a royal pain in the rear.

timebomb33 wrote:

the first thing i do when i'm changing tires on a freshly bought z'r is shitcan the bead locks they are not needed unless you are restoring the bike.

Hmmmm.... since it's only a 55 HP bike and I drive it easy, I doubt I need them. I may chuck them.

short sheetmetal screws with points ground off made good beadlocks!:laugh:

hey ive never seen a stock bike that could get enough hook to turn the tire on the rim.like i said before spin up your wheel by itself and see if it is balanced it probably won't be because of the seam in the rim and dirt and rust in the 30+ year old bead.

define stock,would that be super or pro?:laugh:

55 horsepower stock. super or pro you funnnny guy

oh bummer stock!:laugh:

what the hell you funny and fast which finger are you typing with

my middle one!:laugh: