TOPIC:

Hi all,
I recently acquired a 1981 KZ440 LTD (US import into the UK) as a project to work on (I love twins & this didn't seem to need too much work.....yeah I know!!). When I got it I had a look over it & checked the electrics which I'm pleased to say all worked (tho' it had no indicators fitted).

So, before I started work on it I checked the electrics again & the only things working were the oil & neutral lights which I assumed were down to a bad earth!
I then went into it replacing the connector blocks & bullet connectors, checking circuits, especially all earth leads & connections, cleaned & checked all the switches....still nothing, I disconnected various components where I could in case of a fault, nothing!  I have to admit I am totally stumped & could really use some help now before I get to ripping the loom out........(along the way I fitted some indicators & getting some weird happenings with that but maybe that's for another day........since disconnected them!!)

thanks  
 

First thing is check the voltage at both sides of all the fuses

Do you have a volt meter?

Yes mate.......

ok
put your meter on DC V

key on
kill switch to "RUN"

red probe on battery positive post(post is the metal part of the battery)
black probe on negative post
note voltage to the tenth decimal place(ex 12.5v)

move black probe to engine case
note voltage to the tenth

move black probe to the key switch
measure each wire color
note voltage and wire color
some voltages should be a solid 0.0V
(read post below for more specific instructions)

Turn off key switch

gotta step out but these tests can get us started
 

F64, thank you, will check that & record results.
Wookie58, I'm getting same voltage either side of fuses, 12.1 to 12.3 volts (battery is 12.4)
cheers

key switch connector readings

do not disconnect the key switch connector.
readings must be taken with all connectors connected to measure voltage drop.

meter DC V
key switch on
kill switch"run"

red probe on positive battery post

backprobe the keyswitch connector with the black probe where I marked.
This will test the connector quality as well as the key switch quality.

red wire should be a steady 0.0V(if the reading jumps around a lot that means the connection is open or broken)
red/blue-steady 0.0V
white-steady 0.0V
brown-steady 0.0V

If the above readings are higher than 0.5V then you have too much resistance in that circuit.

 

ok,
Probes on battery - 12.6v
red on battery, black on casing - 12.5v

red on battery, black to key switch connector
white - 0v
brown - 0v
red - 0.4v
red/blue - 0.4v

cheers

ok,
your switch seems fine.
voltage is making it past the switch.
So everything from the battery to the switch is good


I'll come back in a couple hours for more tests as I have to drive.

 

RoyB wrote:

F64, thank you, will check that & record results.
Wookie58, I'm getting same voltage either side of fuses, 12.1 to 12.3 volts (battery is 12.4)
cheers

I 'll leave you in F64's capable hands, it will only become confusing with too many people giving their input. You know what they say about "too many cooks" F64 will get you there 

First thing I would check is the main loom earth. 
The neutral and oil lights are earthed through the engine/earth strap/ neg terminal so they would continue to work but very little else would. 

Haha Wookie!
Jump in if you see something I don't see.
Plus, you, Warren and Roy will be awake long before me tomorrow.


We'll check the ground Warren3200gt was mentioning.
It very well could be the issue.
It will be a yellow and black wire attached to the battery's ground side.


meter on DC V
key switch on
kill switch "run"
again--all connectors should remain plugged in

black probe on battery ground terminal
red probe on far side of the black/yellow connector in green square
reading should be close to 0.0V steady

move red probe to the headlight housing
put it on the yellow/black wire in the red square(it doesn't matter where you probe the wire)
reading should be 0.0V steady

Turn off bike