TOPIC:

As Mikaw explained, the ignition and kill switches do not short anything to ground on Kz's. A grounding kill switch or ignition switch is for magneto driven ignitions or CDI ignitions which are generally not found on Kz's.

Here's a bunch of different ignition types and their various architectures. It explains why there are so many different types of ignition coils out there.
s3.amazonaws.com/gpzweb/Ignition/Ignitio...esAndCoilWiring.html

F64 wrote:

Jackasaurus wrote: Okay, I think I've found something! So went to double check static timing and both sides of the points were earthed out, currently chasing it back, positive on the coil seems to be earthen so time to pull apart the wiring and find out what's going on!

Jack,
Did you find 0 volts on the positive side of the coil?
For this to be valid:

Meter on DC V
black probe on negative battery post
red probe on positive coil terminal
Ignition must be on/engine off
All connections connected
Points closed

If this is the case, you have a break in your positve 12v line to the coil positive terminal.
But all of the above has to happen. Ignition must be on like Gavroyer said.

I had close to battery voltage on the terminal and about 1v drop when I plugged it into the coil, so I'm getting power there, I just seem to be also have an earth somewhere? Getting into it though there's some horrible wiring in here various 3 into one bodges etc

Apparently still getting a hang of this forum

when you check voltages you need the system under load as well as everything connected and on.
You will have 0 volts on the negative side of the coil when the points are closed(ignition on/engine off). That 0 volts will go from the negative side of the coil through the points all the way to ground.

When the points are open you will have battery voltage all the way from the battery to the coil side of the points' contacts. The other side of the points' contacts will have 0 volts.

You should hook your meter up to the coil and fire the bike up. You need to look at the circuit when it fails.
meter on DC V
black probe on negative battery post
red meter probe on negative coil terminal
the voltage will bounce between 12v and 0v.
but i want to know what the meter says when the engine dies.
Also, note the position of the points open or closed

Can I ask a question? With ignition on points open will you get battery voltage thru the coil. Example, If meter black on bat negative meter red on coil primary I know you should have bat voltage. Move red to points side of coil will you still get bat voltage after passing thru primary coil windings

yep,
all the way back to where the points open.
what is interesting... you won't have a voltage drop on that line. you will see pretty close to battery voltage.

points being open is just like the 3rd example down.
photo: dan sullivan

Interesting! Without getting to deep into coil design, and understand the battery + needs a ground - to complete a circuit. Are the primary windings grounded internally?

Mikaw wrote: Interesting! Without getting to deep into coil design, and understand the battery + needs a ground - to complete a circuit. Are the primary windings grounded internally?

In our case, no. But in other ignition designs, yes. That link I posted shows some which do and don't, but some designs the answer is maybe, and has to be determined experimentally if you really need to know. Most often, it's a CDI or magneto coil that has a primary ground connection.

Usually the bigger mystery is how the secondary connections are wired. That link shows how to figure out the secondary wiring on a mystery coil.

Last question and I’ll stop highjacking the thread.

This is were electricity gets beyond my capacity and turns into PFM. See read arrow, is there 12v at that point without a completion back to ground, to allow current flow? Take the coil out and replace it with a light bulb, if F64 is correct wouldn’t there be current through the bulb and it would illuminate?

there will be 12.5 right up to the break.

a light bulb would not light and the result would be the same. Current will not flow as the circuit is open. 12.5 volts up to the break as before.
This is how you find out where the break in the wire is... on the other side of the break is 0 volts.

F64 wrote: when you check voltages you need the system under load as well as everything connected and on.
You will have 0 volts on the negative side of the coil when the points are closed(ignition on/engine off). That 0 volts will go from the negative side of the coil through the points all the way to ground.

When the points are open you will have battery voltage all the way from the battery to the coil? side of the points' contacts. The other side of the points' contacts will have 0 volts.

You should hook your meter up to the coil and fire the bike up. You need to look at the circuit when it fails.
meter on DC V
black probe on negative battery post
red meter probe on negative coil terminal
the voltage will bounce between 12v and 0v.
but i want to know what the meter says when the engine dies.
Also, note the position of the points open or closed

I can't get that as it won't start or run at all, gonna try and spend some time going over the wiring some more tomorrow to find an issue!

well, going back to the first measurements you took it appears the primary side of your ignition is working.

The secondary could be at fault- spark plugs, plug wires, spark plug caps, secondary coil windings.

Which plugs do you have?

Did you buy Kawasaki points and condenser?

Which coil did you buy?

Measure the resistance with one probe in one spark plug cap and the other probe in the other spark plug cap.
Note resistance

Measure the resistance of your spark plugs from the terminal nut to the center electrode.
Note resistance

photo:summit racing