TOPIC:

Back to the coils. You are obviously not satisfied that the bike is running strong now.. You can test the primary and secondary windings with a multi-meter. It is outlined in the service manual. One thing you may not want to do is start putting mis-matched parts on the ignition system, or you will open up a brand new can of worms, end up spending money on parts that you did not need in the first place until you "improved" them. This is a waste spark system, meaning two plugs fire simultaneously from the same coil. Both coils are designed to run with ~10K secondary resistance TOTAL in the plug circuit. Resistor caps, wires / plugs combined impedance.. If you start putting car wires, resistor plugs, etc, and you might as well plan on having ignition / coil problems the rest of your life. Coils normally go bad when they start arcing internally. The igniter can be damaged from a overloaded secondary.


Electricity is lazy. too much secondary high voltage resistance causes internal arcing. From my truck. First the coil wire arced open and had too much resistance, then the H/V coil started arcing to the laminated frame because the electricity had nowhere to go.


Your time would be better spent fixing some of the more obvious stuff like the fork boots and all that other thoroughly "improved" stuff.
The internet is a wonderful thing, Like a library in your living room.. just use caution as to what information you use. You will ultimately be the one to pay the price for bad info and botched "improvements" .

Fork boots were one of the first to get swapped and I'm working on all the "botched improvements". Bike is running good not great but I've done a lot and just wanted to learn how to test coils. So, thanks.

Just wanting to learn? Did you try looking it up in the service manual? Just learning things here myself.

A little back story on learning here.. Back in 90-91, my state of the art TV set started to fold up. I bought a sams photofact schematic on it (you old timers know what a photofact is). BUT, being the faithful DIYer, I could not make heads or tails out of the schematic, nor read it properly either.. In my quest to learn, I enrolled in a 2 year AOSEE trade school, and took out numerous student loans, while sitting in a classroom for 2 years. After TWO years and $13,000.00 later, I was able to fix my TV set and many others too. AND after many years, also paid off my student loans..

The point is..

Leaning is more than point and click. Sometimes it takes a little effort on your part.

I ordered a service manual and am just waiting for it. Just enjoy the forum, wasn't trying to waste anyone's time. I'll just download some manual info in the meantime I guess.

This *.pdf is probably pretty close.

kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/Kawas...Service%20Manual.pdf

Page 202;203, table K-7 for impedances. If it has points, they may be bad or mis-adjusted.

He has the later KZ1000/1100 1981-83 electronic ignition on an early 1977 KZ1000 motor, so he has to read this Manual.

kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/Kawas...Service%20Manual.pdf

...

It´s the engine case vent that Need to connect to the air box to burn the oil mist. Ask Greta Thunberg for a solution!!!

Bbd1983 wrote: ...

K&N makes a filter for that. Might have to use a short length of hose & let the filter lie to one side for it to fit under the pods.
www.z1enterprises.com/air-filter-kn-62-1...-crankcase-vent.html

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Some folks just hook up a long piece of tubing and run it back along the upper frame rail to the rear of the bike with no filter.

This is the device that might make Greta Thumberg happy


Did you download the FSM I posted the link to?

Test the primary of the coils


Then the secondary’s, meter set on OHMS


Check the FSM for acceptable values