Both have their place in a shop. I put bullet connection on the test light and have different leads that I can connect I.e. alligator, ring, blade. That way I have one socket that I know is good. Just takes another variable out of testing
Alright guys not much of an update as apparently we have to have jobs but I got a new battery, fully charged. Installed and got bright headlight/tailight and a strong crank but no start. Checked plugs 1 & 4 as I had like 10 minutes and had spark on both when I previously wasn't getting any. Swapped old for new plugs in 1 & 4 and got brighter blue spark but did seem a bit weak to me overall. I'm used to single cylinder bikes. Tried a touch of starter fluid on my 1 & 4 air filters and it did run momentarily. After work I can pull tank to get to 2/3 cyl, check spark and swap plugs and we will see. I tried both kick and putting starter cable to + on batt.
Went back to it after work, tender had the new batt back to full charge. Pulled tank to get to the other 2 plugs, swapped em and checked spark, now had spark on all 4 cyl. Looked a bit weak but not too bad. Tank back on, wouldn't start. Tried some starter fluid, still wouldn't. Checked fuel flow and those stupid cone filters that were torn at the seal. Did some adjusting best I could, tried a few more times and BOOM she fired with choke on and idled like a raped ape. Panicked and took the choke off and she died. Fired right back up again and just feathered the choke to get a good idle and let her run. Smoked like a banshee but that fuel is probably a year old, was told it had stabil in it. Through the seat on no bolts and took it around the block a few times and it really cleared out and ran pretty great, did spit and sput as expected and blew flame out the pipe. Died when I took the choke all the way off but...SUPERRR HAPPY, now I can focus on more details like draining that shit gas, actually gapping the plugs perfectly etc etc etc etc. Here's my burning question that has me worried...when I did a compression test I got 90 on cyl 1, 85 on 2 and 90 giver or take in 3 and 4. I just don't believe it's that low. Factory spec is 120-140 I read. It was an Orielly rental tester and I was testing with the kicker at w.o.t. The bike also was sitting for probably 9 mo with a ride or 2 before it sat even longer. What are y'all thoughts on that low test? The bike ran really good tonight overall. I plan on getting the tester again and retesting with the electric start now that I can use it and after it's been running a bit. Only other thing bothering me initially is how can I remedy having to take the hanging starter cable and touching it to + to use electric start as the button doesn't work on the throttle side. Should be able to kickstart now but still. THANK YOU GUYS I really appreciate the help.
Ahh right, so basically that cable that i'm touching to + to start would ideally be hardwired to batt and pushing the button would make it momentary, got it. So in theory the factory button is "stuck" like it's held down constantly right?
I wouldn't worry too much about the comp readings just jet, especially with it being stood a while.
Get the running improved, Check the valve clearances and the silly things that need rectifying and run it for a good few miles.
That will allow time for everything to settle.
Right on that's where my head's at too. Gonna have to research valve clearence, all new to me. I am curious to see the change in compression just because so I'll retest. Now that it's running I can get more meticulous with things.