TOPIC:

There is no reason to have a car running, when one only needs the battery,.....

..... but if so, no offense, but my two car charging systems produce 14VDC, rather steady with their more sophisticated, modern voltage regulations. My 30 years old bike produces sometimes 15VDC with its rudimentary voltage regulator (have voltage guage mounted)...HIGHER THAN THE CARS REGULATORs, therefore what the cars electrical system produces when running, is nothing the bike electrical system has not seen before or even higher by its own old jumpy regulators...

Again, once the cars or motorcycles are running both system become nominally 14VDC running system. Technically is not good having two power sources in parallel for long without diodes, but for short period should not be a problem...but as mentioned; no need to have the car running if one only need a jump start from it.

Mikaw wrote:

hugo wrote: Question: For those who understand the basic Kirchhoff's Current Law. V = I*R. If a nuclear aircraft carrier has one thousand (1,000) 12VDC batteries connected all in PARALLEL as auxiliary power, and I tried jump starting a motorcycle from this auxiliary power, what would happen to the bike?????

DC connected in parallel increases strength and possibly AMP/Hour. Connected in series increases voltage....???

YES

I don't know about a KZ250, but the battery is part of the ignition system on my 81 KZ650-CSR >> it says so in the Kawasaki service manual. I think the battery acts as a big capacitor or something for the ignition coils. I jump started my 81 650-CSR from a car (car engine Off, car keys in pocket), but did not disconnect the jumper cables since the motorcycle didn't have a battery. The motorcycle only pulls the amount of current it needs. I did not run the car engine because a good car battery is plenty big enough to turn a puny motorcycle starter, plus I didn't want to take a chance with the car's alternator overpowering the motorcycle electrics.

hugo wrote: There is no reason to have a car running, when one only needs the battery,.....

..... but if so, no offense, but my two car charging systems produce 14VDC, rather steady with their more sophisticated, modern voltage regulations. My 30 years old bike produces sometimes 15VDC with its rudimentary voltage regulator (have voltage guage mounted)...HIGHER THAN THE CARS REGULATORs, therefore what the cars electrical system produces when running, is nothing the bike electrical system has not seen before or even higher by its own old jumpy regulators...

Again, once the cars or motorcycles are running both system become nominally 14VDC running system. Technically is not good having two power sources in parallel for long without diodes, but for short period should not be a problem...but as mentioned; no need to have the car running if one only need a jump start from it.

That's fine, but what amperage does the car's charging system put out compared to what amperage the bike's electrical system can handle. I believe that's where the problem lies in jumping a bike from a running car or truck. A car's charging system can put out more than 100 amps; and KZ can put out far less (around 20 amps or so) so the bike's electrical components may not like the higher amperage. Notice advice in links below. Ed

www.burlingtonharleyriders.org/safety/pd...20a%20motorcycle.pdf

www.motorbikelicense.com/can-you-jump-st...torcycle-with-a-car/

motorcycleviews.com/howtos/howtojumpstart.htm

To kind of put this all into a simple retired motor officers perspective, there were more times than I care to admit that I let my motorcycles emergency lights kill the sole battery in my bike. At best I had about 15 to 20 mins of emergency light run time when stopped before I had starting issues and less if I had the hazard flashers on. I could extend that run time by shutting off non-essential lamps. If and when I did forget to start my bike for a few minutes, to charge the battery up, I was forced to rely on another motor officer jumping me, or an officer in a cruiser. Another motorcycle never presented a problem, but a cruiser did especially due to the fact they always had extra heavy duty charging systems which in my past mechanic life experience, was just too much for a motorcycle if the cruiser was running. My best guess is that I probably had jump starts 5 to 10 times per season, more if the battery in the motorcycle was getting shaky. I had my own set of "special" jumper cables for this function and they never failed me, but the key was never have a cruiser running when jumping my motorcycle.

Interestingly enough, later in my career motorcycle manufacturers and aftermarket suppliers began making auxiliary systems that had a second battery in the radio box. Depending on how configured, the second battery could be used to run emergency lights, or used as a backup battery for starting the bike. If used for starting the battery isolated itself at a given point and stopped any further current draw from it thereby having spare juice to start the bike if needed. Once running the motorcycle charging system replenished both batteries. It was all pretty hi-tech at the time and I almost never had to use my jumper cables. At about the same time emergency light manufacturers began development on LED lighting packages that drew much less current and really extended lamp run time when stationary. And I don't have a clue who Kerchoo was, but what's the answer to the aircraft carrier question?
Rick H.

I am far from getting offended, I’m stating a fact by telling him that I didn’t know, he was automatically assuming that I knew when if you read my post it’s after the fact of me jumping the bike while my car is running.

But thank you for giving me some sort of answer, this was all out of curiosity, having the bike run albeit poorly until I took the car off was nice.

It was just interesting to know that using a car while it’s running caused to bike to pretty much pin itself open until I removed the car.

Centurion wrote: I am far from getting offended, I’m stating a fact by telling him that I didn’t know, he was automatically assuming that I knew when if you read my post it’s after the fact of me jumping the bike while my car is running.

In Texaskz's defense I had to read your OP several time before I caught the word "now"... we all make mistakes..

Charging and throttle are two independent systems, no way one could affect the other beyond the charging system adding a load or lug to the engine by heavy charging requirements... Get a new battery and see how the bike reacts... Just stay away for the Chinese "Scorpion" battery sold on the internet... We have all had bad luck with them...

By Mikaw: ... Just stay away for the Chinese "Scorpion" battery sold on the internet... We have all had bad luck with them...

For informational purposes for the op. The Scorpion AGM quality is down, but I won't say avoid getting one of those. If you do, try to get it on sale to mitigate any premature failure, and keep it on a good smart charger.

My first Scorpion AGM from batterystuff.com lasted exactly 2 yrs >> kind of disappointing after the good reports from others. I didn't want to go back to a walmart battery or any other wet-cell type, and ended up getting another Scorpion AGM which is now 2 yrs 4 mos old & cost $54.95T >> I keep it on a Ctek US 0.8 smart charger & use a VC97 digital multimeter, and the charging system tests within spec.

On the other Scorpion AGM that failed, I would put it on the smart charger at least once a month for a day or two >> that battery never tested below 12.6 VDC, which is why I didn't connect it to the charger all the time.

650ed wrote: .

That's fine, but what amperage does the car's charging system put out compared to what amperage the bike's electrical system can handle. I believe that's where the problem lies in jumping a bike from a running car or truck. A car's charging system can put out more than 100 amps; and KZ can put out far less (around 20 amps or so) so the bike's electrical components may not like the higher amperage. Notice advice in links below. Ed
[/quote]

An electrical system "does not put out amperage (current)", it does not force it out, it makes available to the demand; the resistance.

I = V/R, this means for the same voltage, a system can only push the current as the resistance allows (the vehicle being jumpered).

I does not matter is you are jumpering from a nuclear power plant, as long as your source is nominally 12VDC, only the current demanded would flow. Only higher voltage can push more amperage for the same resistance, and in a motor vehicle, any, this could be up to 2 volts without damage, the running systems are 14VDC.

The high amperage capability for the same voltage only determines the CAPACITY,

ELECTRICALLY; Don't call them cars or motorcycles, call them simply motor vehicles, some bigger some smaller, all sharing the same 12VDC nominal system when no running, and 14VDC system when running.

Another thing to ponder; For those who go by size, or by it is 'car' and this is a 'motorcycle" rather than the laws of electricity.

A Chevy Spark has a 4 cyl, 1.4 liter engine, a Honda Goldwing as a six cyl 1.8 liter engine.

Question; on jumpering from each other, which is more at risk?? The Goldwing because is a 'motorcycle' being jumpered from a car, or the Spark, because it has a smaller engine being jumpered from a bigger six cylinder engined vehicle,??

Thank you, Hugo, for adding some scientific sense to counteract internet "old wives' tales". I've used car batteries to jump start dead motorcycles on many, many occasions, with no ill effects. Back in the eighties, my Guzzi, Laverda and BMW riding friends used to fit small car (Mini?) batteries to their bikes because they were so much cheaper and had greater capacity.

Oh, and since no one else has answered... yes, I'm sure you could jump a bike off your ship's 12V battery system with no issue whatsoever. 12V is 12V no matter how much current capacity lies behind it.

Centurion wrote:

TexasKZ wrote: You knew it could damage the bike, but you did it anyway?

No, that is not normal.

Stop it.

Did you actually read the post or pick out tidbits and reconstruct it yourself and answered it? I said if you read it again I said I now know, I talked to someone afterwards about it being a bad idea,

My question it does it sound normal the bike pinning itself pretty much because I’m jumping with with a far bigger battery and larger charging system causing it to overcharge as I was told it’s called.

I did answer your question. My answer is no, it is not normal.

Jumping from a non-running car is ok.

Jumping from a running car is dependent on the type of alternator and regulator the bike has. If the bike has a permanent magnet alternator, and a shunt regulator, then jumping from a running car and leaving it connected can be a bad idea. The regulator will have to dissipate 100% of the bike's alternator power. It is not designed to do that for any extended amount of time and will cook. When the regulator stops regulating, and the bike is disconnected from the car, the voltage is uncontrolled and will start to blow bulbs and maybe damage ignition systems.