Reg/Rec output question

Hello All:

I am wondering what the power output should be for the reg/rec white wire, This wire goes into the wires that connect to the battery and system power. What should the voltage measurement of this white wire be if it is unplugged from the wiring harness and then measured as it exits the reg/rec when the bike is running.? I think it should be 12 to 14.5 volts DC. Mine seems to be putting out A.C voltage.

cheers,
Ronnie.

Ronnie_D wrote: Hello All:

I am wondering what the power output should be for the reg/rec white wire, This wire goes into the wires that connect to the battery and system power. What should the voltage measurement of this white wire be if it is unplugged from the wiring harness and then measured as it exits the reg/rec when the bike is running.? I think it should be 12 to 14.5 volts DC. Mine seems to be putting out A.C voltage.

cheers,
Ronnie.

It won't be pure AC, but it will be pulsed DC, which a meter will read as having AC voltage. It means the output voltage has a DC component and an AC component. The meter reads them separately.

DC voltage should be pretty high since there is no load. It will be much higher than 12v. The regulator is detecting battery voltage through the brown wire, and that will read a lower than normal reading since you are running only from the battery. So the regulator will essentially be out of the picture.

If the DC voltage is very low, and the AC voltage is very high, then maybe the rectifier is damaged.

The reg/rec in your photo does not look like a factory unit.

The reg/rec is for a KZ1000, after market unit which I bought from Z1 Enterprises. I think it has failed. I want to verify its failure before I buy a Shindengen SH775.
I do have good A/C out from the stator but my battery is going dead. The reg/rec is all that could be causing the no charge issue as far as I can tell. Wiring is all good otherwise.

What are your stator readings?
Steve

Stator readings are around 50 volts at 5000 rpm on all three wires. 26 or so volts at idle.
All stator tests seem good.

Loudhvx wrote
"If the DC voltage is very low, and the AC voltage is very high, then maybe the rectifier is damaged."

On my reg output, the voltage was 2 volts DC and 23 volts A/C when measured from the white reg wire output , unplugged from battery.(as far as I could tell, it was confusing but Loudvhx explained it)

Sounds like you know what you're looking for. It may seem silly but are your contacts clean and the battery terminals clean and tight? I don't know where the Z1E unit is made but the SH 775 cured the issues I was having. I ran a used late model stock R/R in 13 and it worked well a couple years. I then tried aftermarket ones and one fried my new stator. Took Ed's advice and bought a used SH 775 and they were such a good deal I bought another so I have a spare.
Can't go wrong with them as long as they're not made in CHINA. :pinch:
Steve

SWest wrote: Sounds like you know what you're looking for. It may seem silly but are your contacts clean and the battery terminals clean and tight? I don't know where the Z1E unit is made but the SH 775 cured the issues I was having. I ran a used late model stock R/R in 13 and it worked well a couple years. I then tried aftermarket ones and one fried my new stator. Took Ed's advice and bought a used SH 775 and they were such a good deal I bought another so I have a spare.
Can't go wrong with them.
Steve

All contacts and wiring were checked and passed inspection. I am going to buy the SH775 off Ebay.

Thank you for your input Steve and Loudhvx.
Also thanks to Ed(Nessism) for his help.

cheers,
Ronnie.

I assume you checked your stator for shorts to ground? It can be shorted and still show that it is producing AC.

I assume a 78 is different. This was in my 81. The stator on the right is shorted (melted plastic under windings) to the metal:



BTW, What I feel led to my stator being cooked is that the voltage sense wire voltage was ~2 volts lower than battery voltage causing it to overcharge. After an extreme dissection of fuse holder and ignition switch plugs, etc, not finding a bad connection.. I added a relay with fused B+ directly off of the bat terminal on the back of the start solenoid. The brown wire now triggers the relay that provides B+ voltage to the sense wire on my original R/R.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationHere are the plugs / wiring harness for the SH775. Only 10 bucks, but the regulator expense makes up for any cost savings. (unscrupulous vendors found out about the wide range of use for it) Also be aware of the counterfeit regulators. There are a BUNCH of them, and they need to specifically say Shurdengen and marked SH775, not " "direct replacement for XXXXX"

www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/triumph-lin...r-t2500676-part.html

This one specifies it is not counterfeit. Partzilla list it around 170.00 + frt. There might be cheaper auctions on this.

Those fake SH775's are everywhere now. What a rip off. Real SH775's are getting hard to find for good prices now. Words definitely out about them!

I bought a Knock off and it fried my new stator. Got a refund but nothing for the stator.
Steve

I bought this one off Ebay for $62 US. It is off a 2019 Indian salvage wreck from Mototech271. The Indian had 440 miles on it. Brand new. Nessism found it for me.
I also got a Triumph connector from my local dealer for $11 CDN.

No more cheaping out for me. lol....