Bike wont start HELP

Hi i took my bike aprat last night and cleaned everything and put back together then i was riding this morning started it like 3 or 4 times then parked it again for like 45min now wont start i just get one click out when i hit the started button and the click is coming from the left side electrical box just get one click and then nothing batter reads 12.6v any help would be nice thanks

One click from the battery side sounds like a faulty starter solenoid. Follow the + battery cable and you'll find it. Good luck! Paul

Also make sure the + and - battery cable connections (on both ends) are tight. Ed

cool thanks im at work now but ill chack it out when i get home thanks

Starter Solenoid Checkout

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. Some websites for starter motor rebuild kits are:

A. MITSUBA STARTER MOTORS PAGE 2

B. Kawasaki Motorcycle Starters, Nations Starter & Alternator 1-888-334-2632

C. Kawasaki Starter Motors Relays and Solenoids - Buy at WhiteDogBikes

D. Motorcycle Starters - Rick's Motorsport Electrics, Inc.

E. Starters, Alternators and more for Cars, Trucks, Tractors and ATVs


10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.

Ok so I get nothing from selinoid when bridge with screw driver or pliers I get no arc and or start any answers

Do you have voltage at the large wire at the solenoid that comes directly from the battery? (I'm assuming your bike's system is similar to my KZ650 shown below). Ed

well i got it running i really didnt do anything everything seemed to be ok i checked everything i just went out and pushed started it then i would fire up with the starter button

What are the two large terminals you mentioned for the bridging? I think I'm having this same issue with my bike. I have a new solenoid on its way but I am anxious to see if I've put the engine back together correctly.

Trace back from the Positive battery terminal, it will go to the starter solenoid. One cable comes from the battery, and the other goes to the starter motor. Bridging those two larger terminals at the solenoid should make the engine turn over.

That worked wonderfully, thanks! But alas I have no spark, the plugs are fairly new, I've read about the IC igniters going bad often on these bikes so I have a new one coming. The ignition coils are probably stock and I'd like to get some new, but I don't know if the bike is single tower or dual tower performance. How do I go about finding out? It's an 81 kz750 if that helps. I don't know what "tower" is referring to.

Check the pick up coils, they tell the igniter to turn off and on. Here's how to check them:

Ohm Checking Pickup(Pulsing) Coils

The pickup coils on the Kawasaki’s with the factory supplied electronic ignition can sometimes fail or become intermittent due to heat and vibration.

1.Trace back from where the pick up coils are mounted,(under a right side CD sized cover) locate and disconnect a small 4 pin connector. Using a multi-meter set on OHMS and range of X 100 check between the BLUE and BLACK wires(#1 and #4 sparkplug wires) for between 360- 540 OHMS.

2.For #2 and #3 sparkplugs the wire colors will be YELLOW and RED, again 360-540 OHMS.

3.If the pickup coils are suspect of failing due to heat, they can be stressed using a hair dryer without the need of the engine running.

4.A replacement set of pickup coils might be obtained from a dealer who serviced the police Kawasaki’s.

5. If replacement pickup coils are not available, your next choice would be to order a Dyna “S” electronic ignition system from www.z1enterprises.com It replaces the IC igniter with a smaller module located where the mechanical ignition advancer was mounted.

6.Checking with Kawasaki.com website has determined that the Pick up(pulsing) coils are available . The pulsing coil # is 59026-1133 and replaces the older # 1002, 1012 which were used from the MKII motors until the 2005 P24.