TOPIC:

Sealant shouldn't be needed on the ducts.

For the low fuel switch, an o-ring from a HF metric kit could be used: 29.4mm ID x 3.1mm W.
Some auto parts stores sell individual o-rings from a similar kit.

the sealant wasn't for the ducts, sorry for not being specific. it was on the gas leak.

donthaveakawman wrote: dammit it's leaking again. I put zip ties on the airbox boots and found out my jb weld just wan's good enough.

I am thinking, and that is what was wrong with the bike to begin with, but with the vacuum operated petcock seems to have a pulse at idle(1 cylinder). The fuel filter gets pulses of fuel and the wear and tear on the diaphragm yoda yoda etc.
What I was thinking, is to put a restrictor fitting on the vacuum hose with hopes that maybe it would hold some vacuum between the petcock and the restrictor and not beat the diaphragm up so bad.
I am also curious george about a t-fitting going to the capped off carb for the petcock.

Your “pulsing” from #1 cylinder is from improper synchronization or valve lash wrong, my guess anyway. I, too, have the dreaded leak from the positive wire on my fuel level switch. Yesterday I got fed up and removed the sensor and wires and soldered the mounting plate where the wire went through, and used an oring from a harbor freight metric kit. It barely seeped overnight. I might try to braze it with brass next or fill the hole with JB weld, or drill and tap it and plug it with a machine screw and oring. Too bad these things aren’t readily available. I just restored my bike and want everything to work like it should.

My fix didn’t last. I guess the solder didn’t adhere to the flange, so my next step is to try and rebuild the sensor. I was thinking about using a small diameter flanged screw with heatshrink for insulation to keep from grounding out the 12v circuit on the body of the flange and inserting the screw through the sensor side with the sensor lead under the screw head, followed by a flat washer and neoprene washer, then, on the outside, a neoprene washer, flat washer, then double nutted to prevent loosening, then attach lead from connector with third nut. As long as I can seal off the screw from the inside and maintain isolation of the circuit, it should work to restore operation of my sensor and stop the blasted leak. Will keep y’all posted.

I used Permatex liquid metal on the fuel level sensor >> it's a 1-part epoxy that comes in a tube. The repair was done several years ago >> no leaks. The stuff dries kind of like a plastic & isn't brittle.. Before getting a good crimper, I also used the stuff to seal the crimp connections of the turn signal grounding rings at the headlight bucket. additionally, I used it as a spot putty for some fuel tank dings. worked great.
pic is the type of fuel switch I repaired.

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