:( csr problems

im riding my 650 today and all the sudden it just dies. prior it was strong running, started right up too. None of the lights would come on, and when i tried to drop start it it ran but died immediately. Is this an alternator needing replacement?

How old is the battery? Ed

put a new one on last summer. i have been having issues with the cap coming off the vat on the end of it.. but i tried to jump it and runing start drop it in 3rd and it just died both times. then i tried a different battery and that didnt work either. definetly electrical, best case the wire from the battery, worst the alt. any other ideas would be appreciated thanks ed

It will not run with a flat battery, but your issues can be anything from a shorted battery to a broken cable to a broken alternator to a broken rectifier to a broken voltage regulator.

Your post came while I typed. Check the connection to the ground first plus the fuses.

Do anything else electrical work?

even the headlight would not go on.. i will be getting ahold of a voltimeter tommorow and will take a look..

All battery connections must be clean and tight for maximum current tranfer. Check the cable going to the engine mounting bolt. It goes to the Negative(-) battery terminal, and the Positive(+) battery terminal goes to the starter solenoid, and then from there to the starter motor.

If the battery cables when flexed are "Crunchy", they probably have internal corrosion and need replacement. 6 AWG (American Wire Gauge) welding cable will be more than enough to handle the current. Most welding supply places sell it by the foot, so take careful measurement for new cables. They also may be able to crimp or swage new terminal ends for you there, if not, most places that work on electric forklifts should be able to do this for you.

Some terminals have smaller gauge wires crimped into them, so check for looseness, or corrosion.
Fuses, especially the older glass tubed ones, can fail internally, but look good. I change my bikes fuses once a year. AGX is the type needed, probably 10,15, and 20 amp ratings will be what your bike takes.

awesome.. thats what i think the case may be, considering the strip cap was popping off and acid was leaking out probably getting on it. thanks again, folks and ed. oh, and since the alternator charges the battery, wouldnt it be the last in line in the sequence of electrical travel throughout the whole bike?

error never mind

It Is actually a defect with the battery, I called duralast but it was past warranty, so i was beat. I did, however, try another battery that was definnetly good to go, and got the same result

so i removed the housing that holds the ic igniter/starter selenoid from the battery box.. one of the electrical relays is destroyed, but the igniter and starter selenoid seem to be ok. would just one relay ruin it for the whole bike? and the tool im looking to test conductivity is a ohmmeter, correct?

If the main fuse is blown or not making connection, the bike will die and not run. This fuse is located on the left side, under the model cover, beside the battery box. Check all the connections on the wiring that runs from the battery and especially the plugs and sockets.